Atacama (sleeved) Jacket Knitting Pattern

Atacama (Sleeved) Jacket by Martin Storey

What is Being Made

The Atacama (Sleeved) Jacket is a knitted garment designed by Martin Storey, available in a sleeved version. This intermediate-level knitting project creates a fitted jacket suitable for chest sizes ranging from 71–76 cm (28–30 inches) up to 152–157 cm (60–62 inches), with actual underarm measurements from 93.5 cm to 175.5 cm depending on size selection.

Knitting Techniques Used

This pattern employs several core knitting techniques appropriate for an intermediate skill level. The construction involves casting on a foundation of stitches (ranging from 103 to 193 stitches depending on size), followed by shaping through decreases to form fitted armholes and shoulders. The pattern uses short-row shaping and strategic cast-offs to create structured garment pieces. Armhole shaping is achieved by casting off multiple stitches at the beginning of rows, then decreasing one stitch at each end over subsequent rows and alternate rows to create a tapered fit. Shoulder shaping employs a stepped cast-off method, with varying numbers of stitches cast off across multiple rows to create angled shoulders. The back neck is shaped using a three-part neck decrease technique, where stitches are cast off at the neck edge while simultaneously working decreases to create a smooth neckline curve.

Stitches Used

The Atacama (Sleeved) Jacket is worked primarily in stocking stitch (knit on right-side rows, purl on wrong-side rows), which creates the smooth, classic fabric characteristic of this garment. The pattern incorporates knit stitches and purl stitches as the foundational stitch techniques. Shaping is accomplished through decreases (reducing stitch count at armholes and shoulders) and cast-offs (binding off stitches to finish edges and create structured seams).

Materials: Yarn and Needles

This project is designed to be worked in Rowan Summerlite DK, a lightweight double-knit weight yarn supplied in 50-gram balls. The pattern offers color options including Cecily 477, Pickles 475, and Duckling 476 (shown in the short-sleeved version photograph). Yardage requirements vary by size and version, with the sleeveless version requiring 4 to 8 balls depending on size, and the short-sleeved version requiring 6 to 13 balls.

Two needle sizes are required for this project: 3¼mm needles (UK size 10, US size 3) and 3¾mm needles (UK size 9, US size 5). The smaller needles are typically used for ribbed edgings or cuffs, while the larger needles accommodate the main body fabric worked in stocking stitch.

Pattern Structure and Garment Details

The jacket features multiple size options with precise measurements provided for each. The pattern includes instructions for both sleeveless and short-sleeved versions, offering versatility for different seasons and preferences. Armhole depth ranges from approximately 24 cm in the smallest size to 34 cm in the largest size, ensuring proper fit across the size range. The pattern provides detailed row counts for each section, with back length measurements specified to guide accurate gauge and fit.

Shoulder shaping uses a sophisticated stepped cast-off method that varies by size, creating properly angled shoulders for a professional finish. The back neck shaping incorporates a three-row neck decrease combined with strategic cast-offs to create a smooth, finished neckline suitable for adding neckbands or finishing as designed.