Balsam Jacket Knitting Pattern

Balsam Jacket in Valley Yarns Berkshire Bulky

What is Being Made

The Balsam is a cozy cardigan jacket designed by Susan Baron, crafted to provide warmth and comfort during cold winter weather. This garment is suitable for everyday wear around the home, running errands, or casual outdoor activities. The cardigan features a comfortable fit that allows freedom of movement, with finished bust and hip measurements ranging from 36 inches in extra small to 63¼ inches in size 5XL, accommodating a wide range of body sizes.

Yarn and Materials

The primary yarn used is Valley Yarns Berkshire Bulky, a blend of 85% wool and 15% alpaca that provides both warmth and softness. The main body requires 8 to 17 skeins depending on size, with each skein containing 100 grams and 108 yards of yarn. A secondary yarn, Valley Yarns Berkshire (the standard weight version), is used for the pockets to minimize bulk; this lighter yarn contains 100 grams and 141 yards per skein. The cardigan is fastened with 7 buttons measuring 1¼ inches in diameter. Additional materials include stitch markers, stitch holders or scrap yarn, a tapestry needle, and sewing needle with thread to match the yarn color.

Needles and Tools

The pattern requires US size 10 (6.0 mm) circular needles in both 16-24 inch and 40-60 inch lengths, plus double-pointed needles in the same size for working in the round. US size 9 (5.5 mm) double-pointed needles are used for the pockets and cuffs. The gauge is 12 stitches and 20 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch on the larger needles when blocked.

Knitting Techniques and Stitches

The Balsam employs several fundamental knitting techniques that make it suitable for advanced beginners. The garment is constructed in one piece from the hem upward, a method that reduces seaming and creates a seamless appearance.

• Garter Stitch: Used for the deep hem at the base of the jacket, the front bands that frame the button closure, and the collar. Garter stitch creates a textured, reversible fabric with horizontal ridges and provides structure and definition to these key areas.
• Stockinette Stitch: Forms the main body of the cardigan, creating a smooth, classic knit fabric. This stitch is worked flat for the body and in the round for the sleeves.
• Set-in Pockets: Two pockets are worked separately using the lighter-weight Berkshire yarn and then integrated into the body as stockinette stitch begins. This technique reduces bulk at the pocket openings while maintaining structural integrity.
• Drop-Shoulder Sleeves: Stitches are picked up around the armholes and worked in the round in stockinette stitch down to the cuffs, which are finished in garter stitch for a neat edge.
• Buttonholes: Incorporated into the garter stitch front bands, beginning just above the hem, allowing for button closure along the front opening.
• Collar Shaping: Stitches are picked up around the neckline and worked in garter stitch with strategic increases to provide proper shaping and fit around the neck.

Pattern Details and Sizing

The Balsam is offered in nine sizes ranging from extra small to 5XL, with the photographed sample shown in size small. The pattern accommodates 4 to 6 inches of positive ease, meaning the finished garment will be slightly larger than body measurements for a comfortable, relaxed fit. The skill level is designated as Advanced Beginner, indicating that while the pattern uses fundamental stitches and techniques, it requires some experience with garment construction and shaping.