Berroco Tensile Jumper Knitting Pattern

Berroco Tensile Sweater by Norah Gaughan

Garment Overview

The Berroco Tensile is an intermediate-level knitted sweater designed by renowned knitwear designer Norah Gaughan, featured in Norah Gaughan Vol. 15. This pullover sweater is constructed using a bottom-up seamed method and worked flat on straight needles, making it an excellent project for knitters looking to develop their technical skills. The garment is designed with approximately 2 inches of negative ease, creating a fitted silhouette that hugs the body elegantly.

Sizing and Finished Measurements

The Tensile is available in seven sizes to fit bust measurements ranging from 30 inches to 54 inches. Finished bust measurements span from 28 inches to 52 inches, with length options varying from 25½ inches to 27½ inches depending on the size selected. The pattern accommodates a wide range of body types, with the shown sample knitted in size 42 inches.

Techniques and Construction Methods

This sweater employs several intermediate knitting techniques that build valuable skills:

• Bottom-up construction: The sweater is knitted from the lower edge upward, allowing knitters to try on the garment as it progresses and make adjustments to length as needed
• Seamed construction: Pieces are knitted separately and then sewn together using mattress stitch or similar seaming methods, creating clean, professional-looking seams
• Worked flat: Rather than working in the round, this sweater is knitted flat on straight needles, then seamed, which simplifies cable placement and stitch pattern alignment
• Cable work: The pattern features cable stitches as a central design element, requiring the use of a cable needle to create twisted rope-like textures across the fabric

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The Tensile incorporates stockinette stitch as the primary base fabric, which provides a smooth, classic canvas for the design. Cable stitches are worked using a cable needle to cross groups of stitches over one another, creating dimensional texture. The pattern includes charted stitch patterns (referenced as Chart B) that guide cable placement, with specific instructions for different sizes and stitch counts. Stitch markers are used throughout construction to help track pattern repeats and shaping increases, particularly in the sleeve and cap extensions.

Materials and Yarn

The Tensile is designed to be knitted using Berroco Andean Mist yarn in color 6320. Yardage requirements vary by size, ranging from 4 to 7 balls of the 25-gram weight. Berroco Andean Mist is a premium yarn choice that provides excellent stitch definition for cable work.

Needles and Tools

This pattern requires two sizes of knitting needles to create proper gauge and fabric texture. Size 6 (4mm) needles are used for ribbed edgings and cuffs, while size 8 (5mm) needles are used for the main body fabric. A 16-inch circular needle in size 6 (4mm) is specified for working ribbed sections, and a cable needle is essential for manipulating cable stitches throughout the garment.

Gauge

Achieving the correct gauge is critical for this project's success. The pattern specifies a gauge of 20 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches when working stockinette stitch using the larger (size 8) needles. Knitters are strongly encouraged to knit a gauge swatch before beginning the sweater, as variations in gauge will directly affect the finished measurements and fit of the garment.

Skill Level and Considerations

Rated as an intermediate project, the Tensile is suitable for knitters who have mastered basic stitches and are ready to tackle cable work and seaming techniques. The combination of charted patterns, cable manipulation, and seamed construction makes this an excellent skill-building project that produces a sophisticated, wearable garment.