Blue Sky Fibers Pleated Jacket Coat Knitting Pattern

Blue Sky Fibers Pleated Jacket

What is Being Made

The Pleated Jacket is a sophisticated knitted coat designed by Olga Buraya-Kefelian, featuring a stunning folded pleated neckline. This garment is worked entirely in one piece to minimize seaming, making it an elegant layering piece suitable for intermediate knitters. The jacket is constructed with a structured yoke that flows into a full body, creating a polished, tailored silhouette.

Construction Techniques

This pattern employs a top-down, seamless construction method, which is worked flat rather than in the round. The jacket begins with carefully engineered pleats that are folded and worked first, followed by the yoke section worked outward from the pleats, and finally the body worked from the neck down to the bottom edge. This approach minimizes finishing work and seaming, as the entire garment is knitted as one continuous piece.

The pleating technique is a key design feature. The pleats are created by folding stitches from right to left and left to right in a specific sequence using double-pointed needles. Stitches are decreased using the K3tog (knit three together) decrease, which creates sharp, defined fold lines. The pattern uses grafting to join live stitches to purl stitches, a technique that creates an invisible seam and requires careful stitch placement above the turning row to ensure the hem sits properly.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns Used

The primary stitch throughout the jacket is Stockinette Stitch (St st), which creates a smooth, classic fabric with a flat appearance on the right side. The pleated neckline is the focal point, created through strategic folding and decreasing rather than textured stitchwork. The pattern includes foundational techniques such as:

• Knit three together (K3tog) – used to decrease stitches and create the defined pleated folds
• Knitted cast-on – a method that creates a flexible edge by knitting into loops placed on the needle
• Bind-off (BO) – used to secure stitches at openings and edges
• Grafting – joins live stitches to purl rows with an invisible seam

Materials and Tools

This pattern calls for Blue Sky Fibers Suri Merino, a premium yarn blend. The yardage requirement is 5 to 8 hanks depending on size, with each hank containing 100 grams and 164 yards. Suri Merino is known for its softness and subtle sheen, making it an excellent choice for a refined jacket.

The knitting tools required include Size 7 (4.5mm) circular needles measuring 47 inches long and Size 7 (4.5mm) double-pointed needles, both sized to obtain proper gauge. Additional notions include stitch markers, waste yarn for holding stitches, a row counter for tracking progress, two small snaps for closure, 8 inches of ½-inch wide satin ribbon for finishing details, a sewing needle with matching thread, and tapestry needles for weaving in ends and grafting.

Skill Level and Pattern Complexity

This pattern is rated for Intermediate knitters. While the basic stitches are straightforward, the construction method requires understanding of top-down seamless knitting, pleating techniques, and grafting. The pattern involves multiple size options and requires careful attention to stitch counts and placement, particularly when creating the pleated neckline and working the yoke shaping.