Classic Elite Yarns Hemlock Jumper Knitting Pattern

Classic Elite Yarns Hemlock Pullover Sweater

What is Being Made

The Hemlock is a pullover sweater designed by Susan Mills, originally published in the Classic Elite Yarns collection In the Garden 1803. This garment is worked from side to side, beginning at the left sleeve cuff and ending at the right sleeve cuff, creating a unique construction method that builds the entire sweater in one continuous piece. The pullover is available in five sizes: XS (32" bust), S (36" bust), M (40" bust), L (44" bust), and XL (48" bust), with finished lengths ranging from 18¼" to 20½" depending on size.

Techniques Used

This intermediate-level sweater employs seamed construction and is worked flat in rows using a circular knitting needle to accommodate the large number of stitches, despite the flat working method. The distinctive side-to-side construction begins with the left sleeve, which is increased gradually to transition into the body, then continues across to the right sleeve. The pattern incorporates shaping at the neckline with strategic decreases worked one stitch in from the edge for a finished appearance. The cable cast-on method is used when adding stitches for the body sections.

Stitches Used

The primary stitch pattern is the Classic Elite Yarns Ridge Stitch, which creates a textured fabric using alternating knit and purl rows. The Ridge Stitch pattern repeats over four rows: Row 1 (wrong side) is knit, Row 2 (right side) is purl, Row 3 is purl, and Row 4 is knit. This stitch can be worked over any number of stitches, making it versatile for the various sizes. The pattern also incorporates stockinette and reverse stockinette ridges that cover the body of the pullover, creating visual interest through the interplay of smooth and textured surfaces. Because both sides of the Ridge Stitch pattern appear similar, the pattern recommends marking the right side with a removable marker or scrap yarn to avoid confusion during construction.

Materials and Gauge Considerations

While specific yarn weight and yardage are not detailed in the provided pattern excerpt, Classic Elite Yarns Hemlock is designed to be worked with yarn suitable for pullover construction. The pattern emphasizes that the Ridge Stitch row gauge differs greatly when not blocked, making it essential to block your gauge swatch before beginning the project to ensure accurate finished measurements. A circular knitting needle is required to accommodate the stitches during flat working, and a long stitch holder or waste yarn is needed to hold stitches for the back while shaping the front neckline.

Construction Details

The left sleeve begins with a cable cast-on of 50 to 65 stitches depending on size, worked in Ridge Stitch pattern for 7 rows. Increases are worked at each edge, one stitch in from the edge, on every sixteenth row for a total of four increase rows, bringing the sleeve to 60–75 stitches. After 85 total sleeve rows (approximately 10¼" from cast-on), the body is added by casting on 70 to 75 stitches at the beginning of the next two rows, creating a total of 200–225 stitches for the body section. The front and back are then worked separately, with the front featuring neck shaping that decreases one stitch at the neck edge, one stitch in from the edge, on three right-side rows, followed by additional shaping rows to create a finished neckline.