Debbie Bliss Curved Edge Jacket Knitting Pattern

Debbie Bliss Curved Edge Jacket

What Is Being Made

The Debbie Bliss Curved Edge Jacket is a seamed knit jacket featuring distinctive cable detailing and curved shaping. This intermediate-level garment is designed to fit chest measurements ranging from 81-86cm (32-34in) up to 152-158cm (60-62in), with finished chest measurements between 108cm and 169cm depending on size. The jacket offers a length to shoulder of approximately 67-70cm across all sizes, with sleeve lengths of 45-48cm, making it a versatile layering piece suitable for various body types and proportions.

Techniques Used

This jacket is constructed using several key knitting techniques that contribute to its refined appearance and structure. The garment is worked flat on straight needles, meaning pieces are knitted in separate sections and then joined together through seaming. This approach allows for precise shaping and control over the finished garment's fit and drape.

Cable knitting is the primary decorative technique featured throughout the design. The pattern includes two main cable variations: C12B (Cable 12 Back), which involves slipping 6 stitches onto a cable needle and holding them at the back of the work before knitting 6 stitches, then knitting the 6 stitches from the cable needle; and C12F (Cable 12 Front), which follows the same principle but holds the cable needle at the front of the work. Each 18-stitch cable measures 8cm (3¼in) in width, creating bold textural interest. The jacket also incorporates wrap stitches, a technique where yarn is brought to the opposite side of the work and the stitch is slipped back onto the left needle, then worked together with the wrap on the next row. This technique is commonly used to prevent holes when shaping or turning stitches.

Additional shaping techniques include standard increases (abbreviated as inc and m1p for make 1 by picking up the loop lying between needles and purling into the back of it) and decreases (dec), which are used to create the jacket's curved edges and tailored fit. The pattern also employs stocking stitch (stockinette stitch in US terminology), the fundamental knit-purl combination that creates a smooth, classic fabric base.

Stitches Used

• Knit (k): The primary stitch forming the foundation of the fabric
• Purl (p): Used in combination with knit stitches to create texture and pattern definition
• Knit through back of loop (k1tbl): Creates a twisted stitch often used for decorative edging or ribbing
• Stocking stitch (st st): The main fabric structure combining knit and purl rows
• Cable stitches (C12B and C12F): The signature decorative elements that add visual and textural interest
• Wrap stitches (wrap1): Used for shaping without creating visible holes
• Make 1 (m1p): An invisible increase method that maintains fabric integrity
• Yarn forward (yfwd): Creates decorative eyelet effects or increases

Materials and Gauge

The Debbie Bliss Curved Edge Jacket is knitted using Debbie Bliss Dulcie yarn in the colorway Cloud 04. The yardage requirement varies by size, ranging from 18 balls (50g/1¾oz each) for the smallest size up to 26 balls for the largest size, providing flexibility for different garment dimensions.

Two needle sizes are required for this project. The 6.5mm (US 10) knitting needles are used for ribbed edgings and initial sections, while the 7mm (US 10.5) knitting needles are used for the main body fabric. A 6.5mm (US 10) circular needle measuring 15 inches is also needed, likely for finishing details or neckline work.

The recommended gauge is 15 stitches and 20 rows to a 10cm (4in) square when worked over pattern using the 7mm (US 10.5) needles. Achieving proper gauge is essential for obtaining the correct finished measurements. The 18-stitch cable motif measures 8cm (3¼in) in width at this gauge, providing a reference point for cable tension consistency throughout the project.