Debbie Bliss Marianne Jacket Knitting Pattern

Debbie Bliss Marianne Jacket

What is Being Made

The Marianne Jacket is a sophisticated knitted cardigan designed by Debbie Bliss, crafted from Cashmerino Aran yarn. This intermediate-level project creates a tailored jacket featuring an open-ended zipper closure, available in four finished bust sizes ranging from 49½ inches to 62¼ inches (126cm to 158cm). The jacket combines a multicolor striped design with a classic broken rib pattern, making it a versatile layering piece suitable for various occasions.

Techniques Used

The Marianne Jacket is constructed using several key knitting techniques:

• Bottom-up construction: The garment is knitted from the cast-on edge upward, allowing for easy adjustments to length during the knitting process
• Worked flat: All pieces are knitted on straight needles rather than in the round, creating separate front, back, and sleeve components
• Seamed assembly: Individual pieces are sewn together after completion to form the finished jacket
• Zipper insertion: An open-ended zip measuring 55cm to 60cm (depending on size) is integrated into the front opening for secure closure
• Shaping techniques: Strategic cast-offs at the upper arm and shoulder create proper garment shaping and fit

Stitches Used

The Marianne Jacket employs fundamental knitting stitches executed with precision:

• Broken rib pattern: The primary stitch pattern alternates knit and purl stitches in a structured sequence (K1, P2, K1), creating vertical texture and elasticity throughout the garment
• Knit stitch (K): Used for creating smooth fabric sections and forming the foundation of the design
• Purl stitch (P): Combined with knit stitches to establish the broken rib texture
• Decrease stitches (dec): Employed during shaping at the upper arm and shoulder areas to achieve proper fit
• Slip, knit, pass slipped stitch over (skpo): A decrease technique used for refined shaping

Materials and Gauge

The Marianne Jacket is worked in Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Aran, a premium yarn blend offering softness and drape. The yarn requirements vary by size, utilizing four coordinating colorways:

• Navy 04 (A): 8 to 9 balls of 50g each, forming the primary color
• Maroon 88 (B): 3 to 5 balls of 50g each
• Blackberry 55 (C): 3 to 5 balls of 50g each
• Burnt Orange 48 (D): 4 to 5 balls of 50g each

The project requires two sizes of needles: 4.5mm (US 7) needles and 5mm (US 8) needles. The working gauge is 22½ stitches and 28 rows to 10cm (4 inches) over pattern using the 5mm (US 8) needles. An open-ended zip measuring 55cm to 60cm (22½ to 23⅝ inches) completes the closure, with size selection depending on the finished jacket dimensions.

Construction Details

The jacket is constructed in separate pieces beginning with the right side, left side, and back panels. Each section is initiated with a cast-on using Maroon yarn, establishing the broken rib pattern foundation. The color work progresses through the design, with Navy forming the primary body color and the accent colors (Maroon, Blackberry, and Burnt Orange) creating visual interest. The sleeve length is consistent at 44cm (17¼ inches) across all sizes. Finished length measurements range from 67cm to 73cm (26½ to 28¾ inches) from the back neck, accommodating different proportions across the size range.