Ella Rae Waistcoat Knitting Pattern

Ella Rae Leonine Vest

What is Being Made

The Ella Rae Leonine Vest is a seamed knit waistcoat designed by Sandi Prosser. This sleeveless garment is sized for Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, and XX-Large, with finished bust measurements ranging from 34 inches (86.5 cm) to 50 inches (127 cm) and back lengths between 20½ and 23 inches (52 to 58.5 cm). The vest features a sophisticated color-blocked striped design created through alternating yarn colors and slip-stitch patterning.

Techniques Used

The Leonine Vest is worked flat on circular needles, meaning pieces are knitted in rows rather than in the round. The garment is constructed using the seamed method, where individual pieces are knitted separately and then joined together with seams. This construction approach allows for precise shaping and color placement throughout the design. The stripe pattern is achieved through strategic color changes and slip-stitch techniques that create visual interest while maintaining structural integrity.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The pattern employs two distinct main stitch patterns, both featuring slip stitches as a primary design element. Slip stitches are used to create the distinctive striped effect by passing stitches from one needle to another without knitting them, allowing the yarn color underneath to show through.

Main Pattern 1 works over a multiple of 8 stitches plus 2 additional stitches. The 16-row repeat alternates between rows worked with color A and rows worked with the main color (MC). Rows 1 and 3 begin with knit 6, then slip 2 stitches, repeating this sequence to the end. Rows 2 and 4 mirror this with purl stitches. Rows 5 and 13 are worked entirely in the main color with knit stitches. Rows 6 through 8 and rows 14 through 16 create additional slip-stitch variations, shifting the stitch placement to create a staggered, interlocking stripe effect.

Main Pattern 2 also works over a multiple of 8 stitches plus 2. This pattern begins with knit 6, slip 2 to the last 2 stitches, then knit 2. The purl rows reverse this placement. Like Main Pattern 1, rows 5 and 13 are worked in solid knit with the main color, while rows 6 through 8 and rows 14 through 16 create additional textural variation through slip-stitch placement shifts.

The combination of these patterns creates a complex, visually dynamic fabric with excellent stitch definition. The slip-stitch technique not only provides aesthetic appeal but also creates a fabric with good elasticity and recovery, making it ideal for a fitted waistcoat silhouette.

Materials

The Leonine Vest is designed to be knitted using Ella Rae Cashmereno Sport Speckled yarn for the main color and Ella Rae Cashmereno Sport yarn for the contrast color. The main color is shade 102 Sand Castle in the Speckled variety, requiring 7 to 12 balls of 50g each depending on size. The contrast color is shade 26 Butterscotch in the regular Cashmereno Sport weight, requiring 6 to 9 skeins of 50g each.

The project calls for Size US 5 (3.75mm) circular needles in two lengths: a 16-inch (40cm) needle for smaller sections and a 32-inch (80cm) needle for larger sections. Additional notions include stitch holders and stitch markers to manage stitches during construction.

The recommended gauge is 24 stitches and 35½ rows to 4 inches (10 cm) over pattern stitch when blocked, using size US 5 (3.75mm) needles. Achieving proper gauge is essential for accurate finished measurements and proper fit of the completed vest.

Pattern Structure

The pattern begins by casting on 138 to 154 stitches depending on size using the longer circular needles and main color yarn. The left front and back sections are worked flat, meaning knitters work back and forth in rows rather than continuously in rounds. The slip-stitch patterns are introduced early in the construction, establishing the distinctive striped colorwork that defines the garment's aesthetic.