Esmeray Sweater Jumper Knitting Pattern

Esmeray Sweater in Berroco Vento

What is Being Made

The Esmeray Sweater is an intermediate-level knitted pullover garment designed by Alison Green. This sweater is constructed as a seamless, top-down design that offers a modern, fitted silhouette with multiple size options ranging from 35¾ inches to 75 inches in bust circumference. The finished length varies from approximately 21 inches to 24 inches depending on the selected size, providing versatile styling options for different body proportions and preferences.

Construction Technique

This garment employs a sophisticated top-down construction method, which allows knitters to try on the sweater as it progresses and make adjustments to the length before binding off. The yoke—the upper portion of the sweater that encompasses the shoulders and upper chest—is shaped using short rows, a technique that creates gradual shaping without the need for seaming. This method produces a seamless, professional finish with improved drape and comfort.

The sweater is worked in one continuous piece using circular needles, eliminating the need for seaming multiple components together. This construction approach is particularly valued by knitters seeking garments with clean, uninterrupted lines and superior fit.

Stitches and Colorwork

The primary stitch pattern used throughout most of the garment is stockinette stitch (St st), a fundamental knitting stitch that creates a smooth, classic fabric with a distinctive V-pattern appearance on the right side. The pattern incorporates colorwork elements worked from a chart, introducing visual interest and texture variation to the design.

Short-row shaping is employed strategically in the yoke construction. This technique involves working back and forth across a portion of stitches, then wrapping the turning stitch to prevent holes. The wrapped stitches are later picked up and purled together with their corresponding stitch, creating seamless shaping that enhances the garment's fit across the shoulders and upper back.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

Yarn: The Esmeray Sweater is designed specifically for Berroco Vento, a yarn that weighs 100 grams per ball. The pattern calls for two colors: the main color (MC) in shade #5661 Trade, requiring between 6 to 11 balls depending on size, and a contrasting color (CC) in shade #5604 Bise, requiring 1 to 2 balls. This two-color combination allows knitters to create striking visual contrast while maintaining the yarn's performance characteristics.

Needles and Notions: The pattern requires circular needles in two sizes. Smaller needles (size 5 / 3.75 mm) in both 16-inch and 32-inch lengths are used for ribbed edgings and sections requiring tighter gauge. Larger needles (size 7 / 4.5 mm) in matching lengths are used for the main body fabric. Additionally, one set of double-pointed needles in both sizes is necessary for working the sleeves in the round. A single stitch marker aids in tracking the beginning of rounds, and waste yarn is used to temporarily hold sleeve stitches during construction.

Gauge and Finishing

Achieving proper gauge is essential for this pattern's success. The specified gauge is 22 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch using the larger needles. When working the colorwork chart sections, the gauge is 22 stitches and 25 rows over 4 inches using the larger needles. These measurements are taken after blocking, a crucial finishing step that sets the yarn and stabilizes the fabric dimensions. The pattern recommends 2 to 4 inches of positive ease for comfortable wearing, allowing movement while maintaining a refined silhouette.