Gem Top Knitting Pattern

Gem Knitted Top by Martin Storey for Rowan

What is Being Made

The Gem is a knitted top designed to fit bust sizes ranging from 71-76 cm (28-30 inches) up to 152-157 cm (60-62 inches), making it available in nine different size options. This intermediate-level knitting project creates a fitted garment with shaping at the armholes and neckline, suitable for a range of body measurements and proportions.

Yarn and Materials

This pattern uses Rowan Cotton Glace, a lightweight cotton yarn supplied in 50-gram balls. The photographed sample is worked in the colorway Bleached 726. The project requires two pairs of needles: 3.25mm (US 3) needles for the main fabric and 2.25mm (US 1) needles for ribbing or edging. Additional notions include a cable needle, stitch holders, and four hook and eye fasteners for closure.

Stitches and Techniques

The Gem incorporates several fundamental and intermediate knitting techniques. The primary fabric is worked in stockinette stitch, which creates a smooth, classic knit surface. Reverse stockinette stitch is used for side sections, producing a textured, purl-facing appearance that contrasts with the main fabric.

A significant design feature is the cable pattern that runs vertically down the center front of the garment. This cable motif spans 62 stitches and repeats over 24 rows, requiring the use of a cable needle to cross stitches and create the twisted, rope-like texture characteristic of cable knitting. The cable pattern is maintained throughout the length of the front piece, even as shaping decreases occur at the armholes and neckline.

Construction and Shaping

The pattern employs strategic shaping to create a fitted silhouette. Increases are worked at each side seam on regular intervals (every 10th to 14th row, depending on size) during the initial body length, building width gradually. The garment is then shaped at the armholes through a combination of cast-off stitches at the beginning of rows and decreases worked at each end of subsequent rows over multiple rows.

Neck shaping is accomplished by dividing the front stitches and working each shoulder separately. Decreases are worked at the neck edge over alternating rows and third rows in a staggered pattern, creating a curved neckline. Simultaneous armhole shaping continues during the neck shaping phase, requiring careful attention to pattern placement and stitch counts.

Tension and Fit

Achieving the correct tension is essential for this project. The pattern specifies a tension of 23 stitches and 32 rows over 10 centimeters measured over stockinette stitch using the 3.25mm (US 3) needles. Accurate tension ensures the garment fits as intended across all nine size options and allows the cable pattern to display properly without distortion.

Difficulty Level

Classified as an intermediate project, the Gem requires knitters to be comfortable with cable techniques, maintaining pattern repeats while simultaneously working shaping decreases, and managing multiple stitch holders for neckline construction. The combination of textured stitches, cable work, and complex shaping makes this suitable for knitters with foundational skills who are ready to advance their technique.