Josephine Waistcoat Crochet Pattern

Josephine Waistcoat in Rowan Big Wool

What is Being Made

The Josephine Waistcoat is a crochet garment designed to fit bust measurements ranging from 71–76 cm (28–30 in) up to 152–157 cm (60–62 in), with actual finished bust measurements from 107 cm (42¼ in) to 196 cm (77¼ in). This intermediate-level project creates a structured waistcoat suitable for various sizes and body types.

Crochet Techniques and Stitches

The Josephine Waistcoat employs several key crochet techniques to create its distinctive texture and structure:

• Diagonal Spike Stitch: A decorative and textured stitch that forms the primary pattern element. The pattern uses a repeating sequence of treble stitches combined with skip stitches and spike stitches worked over skipped stitches, creating a diagonal visual effect across the fabric.
• Treble Stitches (tr): Used as the foundation stitch for the spike stitch pattern sections, providing height and structure to the waistcoat body.
• Treble Decreases (tr2tog): Applied strategically for shaping, including armhole shaping and front neck shaping to ensure proper fit.
• Double Crochet (dc): Transitions the fabric texture in later sections of the garment, creating a smoother, more compact stitch after the patterned sections.
• Back Loop Only (BLO) and Front Loop Only (FLO) Techniques: Used when working double crochet rows to create textural variation and definition in the finished piece.
• Double Crochet Decreases (dc2tog): Employed during front neck shaping to gradually reduce stitch counts and create a fitted neckline.

Materials: Yarn and Hook

Yarn: Rowan Big Wool, a bulky-weight yarn in 100-gram balls. The pattern was photographed in the colorway Concrete 061. Yardage requirements vary by size, ranging from 8 balls for the smallest size to 10 balls for the largest size.

Hook: A 10mm (US 15) crochet hook is required throughout the project.

Tension and Gauge

Achieving proper tension is essential for this project. The pattern specifies two different gauges depending on the stitch being worked:

• Diagonal Spike Stitch Gauge: 8.5 stitches and 4 rows measured over 10 cm (4 in) using a 10mm crochet hook.
• Double Crochet Gauge: 9 stitches and 8 rows measured over 10 cm (4 in) using a 10mm crochet hook.

Swatching before beginning is recommended to ensure the finished waistcoat achieves the intended dimensions and drape.

Construction Details

The waistcoat is constructed with careful shaping for armholes and front neck. Armhole shaping involves progressive decreases using treble stitches, reducing stitch counts from the initial cast-on. The front neck shaping occurs later in the pattern, with double crochet stitches used to shape the neckline gradually over multiple rows. The garment continues straight in double crochet until it reaches the specified length from the armhole shaping point, which varies by size from approximately 16 cm to 24 cm.