Lana Grossa 09 Jacket Coat Knitting Pattern

Lana Grossa 09 Jacket in Fusione

What is Being Made

The Lana Grossa 09 Jacket in Fusione is a classic seamed knit jacket designed for sizes 36/38 through 48/50. This garment features a structured silhouette with shaped shoulders, set-in sleeves, and a finished collar. The design comes from Filati Classici 17 edition and represents a timeless outerwear piece suitable for layering and everyday wear.

Construction Method and Techniques

This jacket is constructed using a bottom-up, worked-flat approach, meaning pieces are knitted individually from the cast-on edge upward and then seamed together. The garment is built in separate components: the back, left front, right front, sleeves, and collar. This method allows for precise shaping and sizing adjustments throughout the knitting process.

The jacket employs seamed construction, with shoulder seams and sleeve cap seams providing structural integrity. A two-stitch selvage is worked on the edges of pieces to create neat, finished seams. Pieces are pinned to measurements and blocked before assembly to ensure proper fit and professional finishing.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The primary stitch used throughout the jacket is Stockinette Stitch (St st), which creates a smooth, classic fabric with knit stitches on the right side and purl stitches on the wrong side. This fundamental stitch provides a clean, refined appearance ideal for a tailored jacket.

Ribbing is incorporated as a secondary stitch pattern. The rib pattern uses a two-stitch repeat (P2, k2), alternating purl and knit stitches to create vertical lines of texture. Ribbing appears in cuffs and waistband areas, providing elasticity and a finished edge that hugs the body.

Reverse Stockinette Stitch (Rev St st) is also referenced in the pattern, created by purling on the right side and knitting on the wrong side, offering textural contrast when needed.

A two-stitch selvage is worked on all seamed edges, using slip stitches worked purlwise to create neat, chain-like edges that are easier to seam together with minimal bulk.

Shaping Details

The jacket features sophisticated shaping throughout. Shoulder shaping is achieved through strategic bind-offs at the beginning of right-side rows, with graduated decreases that vary by size (ranging from 5 to 7 stitches per decrease). The front pieces include shaping for armholes and neckline, with all shaping reversed on the right front for symmetry.

Sleeve shaping begins with increases worked at regular intervals. After the initial 8 cm of straight knitting, increases are worked every 10th row, then transition to alternating 8th and 10th row intervals, and finally every 6th or 8th row depending on size. This graduated increase pattern creates a smooth cap that fits properly into the armhole. Sleeves measure 53 cm in total length from cast-on.

Materials and Gauge

The Lana Grossa 09 Jacket in Fusione is knitted with Lana Grossa Fusione yarn in the colorway Light Brown Mélange (col 3). This yarn is a premium blend containing 30% cotton, 26% extrafine Merino wool, 25% baby alpaca, and 19% polyamide, offering a combination of breathability, softness, warmth, and durability. The yarn provides 140 meters per 50-gram ball.

Yardage requirements vary by size: 650 grams (approximately 1,820 meters) for size 36/38, 700 grams for size 40/42, 750 grams for size 44/46, and 800 grams for size 48/50.

Size 6 mm needles are used throughout the jacket. The pattern specifies a gauge of 17 stitches and 27 rows measuring 10 x 10 centimeters in Stockinette Stitch on size 6 mm needles. Achieving this gauge is essential for proper fit, as all sizing calculations depend on this tension.

Finishing and Assembly

After all pieces are knitted, the jacket undergoes careful finishing. Pieces are pinned to measurements and blocked to even out stitches and set the fabric shape. Shoulder seams are sewn together, followed by sleeve cap seams. A collar is worked directly from held stitches