Plymouth Yarn Folded Collar Henley Pullover Knitting Pattern

Plymouth Yarn Folded Collar Henley Pullover

What is Being Made

The Plymouth Yarn Folded Collar Henley Pullover (Pattern No. 3417) is a classic henley-style pullover sweater featuring a distinctive folded collar opening at the neckline. This garment is constructed using Quaker Hill yarn and is available in five finished size options: 38, 42.5, 46, 50, and 53.5 inches. The pullover showcases a structured henley neckline with button closure, making it a versatile layering piece suitable for various occasions and seasons.

Construction Techniques

This pullover employs a strategic combination of knitting techniques to create a well-fitted, professional garment. The sweater is worked using a bottom-up construction method, meaning the knitter begins at the lower edge and works upward toward the neckline. The front and back panels are worked flat on circular needles in rows for the lower ribbed cuff sections, then joined to be worked in the round from the underarm upward for efficiency and seamless construction. The sleeves are worked in the round using circular needles, then seamlessly integrated into the yoke using raglan shaping. This hybrid approach—combining flat and circular knitting—allows for both precise shaping at the lower body and efficient seamless construction in the yoke and sleeve cap areas. The folded collar is created by picking up stitches at the neckline and working short rows to shape the back neck, resulting in a refined, professional finish.

Stitches Used

• 3 x 3 Rib: A textured ribbed stitch pattern worked over a multiple of 6 stitches, alternating knit and purl columns (K3, P3). This stitch is used for the lower cuff sections of both the front and back panels, providing elasticity and a classic finished edge that hugs the body.
• Stockinette Stitch (St st): The primary stitch used throughout the body and sleeves above the ribbed cuffs. This smooth, classic stitch creates a clean canvas that showcases the yarn's texture and color.
• Raglan Shaping: Decreases worked strategically at the raglan seams to create the sloped shoulder line characteristic of raglan-style sweaters, ensuring proper fit and sleeve cap ease.
• Short Rows: Employed at the back neck to shape the folded collar, allowing the neckline to sit properly and the collar to fold naturally.

Materials and Gauge

The Plymouth Yarn Folded Collar Henley Pullover is worked using Quaker Hill yarn from Plymouth Yarn, requiring 4 to 6 skeins of 100g weight depending on the finished size selected. The sample shown is worked in color 3 Light Grey. The recommended gauge is 22 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches in Stockinette Stitch using the larger needles. Achieving proper gauge is essential for obtaining the correct finished measurements and fit.

The pattern requires two sizes of US circular needles: 16-inch and 24-inch needles in both US Size 5 (3.75 mm) and US Size 4 (3.5 mm). Additionally, US Size 4 (3.5 mm) and US Size 5 (3.75 mm) double-pointed needles are needed for working the sleeves in the round. The smaller needles are used for the ribbed cuff sections to maintain proper tension and elasticity, while the larger needles are used for the body and sleeves in Stockinette Stitch. Supporting notions include a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers for tracking pattern repeats and construction points, a stitch holder or waste yarn for holding stitches during assembly, and 4 to 6 one-inch buttons (the sample uses Lickin Flames Carbon Painted small buttons) for the henley front opening.

Sizing and Finished Measurements

The pattern is graded across five sizes with finished bust measurements of 38, 42.5, 46, 50, and 53.5 inches, accommodating a range of body types and fit preferences. The yoke and body length measurements are also proportionally adjusted across sizes to maintain proper proportions and wearability at each size.