Pucker Jacket Knitting Pattern

Pucker Jacket in Rowan Pure Alpaca

What is Being Made

The Pucker Jacket is a fitted knitted jacket designed by Martin Storey. This intermediate-level garment is tailored to fit chest measurements ranging from 71–76 cm (28–30 in) through to 152–157 cm (60–62 in), with actual finished chest measurements between 86 cm (33¾ in) and 167.5 cm (66 in). The jacket features shaping at the armholes and shoulders, creating a structured silhouette suitable for layering or wearing as a standalone piece.

Techniques Used

This pattern employs several intermediate knitting techniques that add visual interest and structural definition to the garment:

• Cable work: The design incorporates cables as a central design element, with specific shaping that maintains pattern accuracy throughout the garment construction.
• Decreasing methods: Strategic decreases using K2tog (knit two together) and K2tog tbl (knit two together through back loop) are worked to shape the jacket at the armholes and create fitted seams. These decreases are worked in a repeating sequence over 4-row intervals, repeated 13 times to achieve the desired fit.
• Reverse stockinette stitch: Reverse stockinette stitch is used as a background texture between cable panels, creating contrast and definition.
• Armhole and shoulder shaping: The pattern includes cast-off shaping at the armholes and shoulders to create a tailored fit. Armhole depth ranges from 20–30 cm depending on size, with graduated decreases worked over multiple rows and alternate rows to ensure smooth shaping.
• Pattern maintenance: Throughout shaping sequences, stitch patterns are kept correct, requiring the knitter to track pattern placement while executing decreases and cast-offs.

Stitches Used

The Pucker Jacket is constructed primarily using:

• Double moss stitch: This is the primary stitch used for the main fabric, providing a textured, reversible surface. Double moss stitch creates a subtle, bumpy texture that differs from smooth stockinette.
• Cable stitches: Cables are incorporated as a design feature, worked using a cable needle to create twisted, rope-like vertical lines throughout the jacket.
• Stockinette stitch variations: Reverse stockinette stitch is used in specific areas, particularly between cable panels, to provide textural contrast.

Materials

The Pucker Jacket is knitted using Rowan Pure Alpaca, a luxury yarn available in 50-gram balls. The pattern is photographed in the colorway Ocean (shade 128). Depending on the size being made, the pattern requires between 13 and 24 balls of yarn.

The pattern calls for two pairs of needles: 3¼mm (US 3) needles for ribbing or cuff sections, and 3¾mm (US 5) needles for the main fabric. A cable needle is required for working the cable stitches. The jacket is finished with 6 metal buttons measuring 25mm (TGB4464 from Textile Garden).

Tension and Sizing

The pattern is designed to be worked at a tension of 24 stitches and 30 rows to 10 cm (approximately 4 inches) measured over double moss stitch using 3¾mm (US 5) needles. Accurate tension is essential for achieving the correct finished measurements. The pattern provides nine size options, allowing for a customized fit across a wide range of chest measurements.