Rowan Chamomile Waistcoat Knitting Pattern

Rowan Chamomile Waistcoat by Erika Knight

What is Being Made

The Rowan Chamomile is an intermediate-level knitted waistcoat designed to fit bust measurements from 81-86 cm (32-34 inches) up to 122-127 cm (48-50 inches). The finished garment measures 108 to 152 cm (42½ to 59¾ inches) at the lower edge, offering a range of sizes for various body types. This is a structured sleeveless garment featuring a decorative back section with armhole extensions.

Construction and Techniques

The waistcoat is constructed using traditional flat knitting techniques on straight needles. The back is worked in two separate lower sections that are subsequently joined together using a purl-together decrease, creating a seamless center join. After the main back panel is established, armhole extensions are shaped through strategic increases worked at the edges. The pattern employs a distinctive technique where stitches are cast on in stages to create the armhole shaping, with 8 stitches cast on in two separate rows to build the armhole depth and structure.

The construction method involves working from the cast-on edge upward, with placement markers set at key points to guide the shaping. The garment uses increases that are integrated into the established stitch pattern, ensuring a cohesive visual appearance throughout the shaping process.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The primary stitch pattern utilizes a combination of knit and purl stitches creating a textured fabric. The pattern incorporates special abbreviations including brK (knit together next stitch with the paired stitch lying in front of it) and brKinc2 (work into the next stitch together with the paired stitch). These techniques create a brioche-style effect that adds visual interest and elasticity to the fabric.

Additional stitch techniques employed include:

• Yarn forward (yfwd) for creating decorative eyelet details
• Slip 1 purlwise (sl 1 purlwise) for smooth edge definition
• Yarn over (yon) for lace-like elements
• Standard knit (K) and purl (P) stitches forming the foundation of the pattern

The stitch pattern is worked in repeats that maintain consistency across the garment width, with edge stitches worked differently to ensure neat selvages.

Materials and Gauge

The Rowan Chamomile waistcoat is worked in a Cotton Wool blend yarn, with yardage requirements ranging from 9 to 13 x 50-gram balls depending on the size selected. This fiber combination provides breathability and structure suitable for a waistcoat garment.

The project requires two pairs of needles: 4mm (US 6) needles and 4½mm (US 7) needles, with an additional 4½mm (US 7) needle needed for casting off at the shoulders. The working tension is 18 stitches and 32 rows to 10 centimeters measured over the pattern using the 4½mm needles, which is essential to achieve the correct finished measurements and garment fit.

Skill Level

Rated as an intermediate project, the Rowan Chamomile requires solid foundational knitting skills including comfort with stitch pattern reading, shaping techniques, and the special brioche-style abbreviations used throughout. Knitters should be confident working with pattern repeats and managing multiple stitch types within a single row.