Rowan 12 Coat Knitting Pattern

Rowan 12 Coat by Martin Storey

What is Being Made

The Rowan 12 Coat is a knitted coat designed by Martin Storey, available in five sizes to fit bust measurements from 81-86 cm (32-34 in) up to 122-127 cm (48-50 in). The finished garment features actual bust measurements ranging from 110 cm (43¼ in) to 148.5 cm (58½ in), providing comfortable ease for layering. This is a structured, seamed coat suitable for intermediate knitters.

Techniques Used

This coat is constructed using several key knitting techniques that create both structure and visual interest:

• Bottom-up construction: The coat is worked from the bottom upward, beginning with casting on stitches for the left front panel and building the garment piece by piece.
• Worked flat: All pieces are knitted flat on straight needles rather than in the round, allowing for the front opening and seamed construction.
• Seamed assembly: Individual pieces (fronts, back, and sleeves) are knitted separately and then seamed together to create the finished coat.
• Cable patterning: The coat features cable stitch patterns worked from a chart, with the main design area using a 32-row pattern repeat. The cable technique involves slipping stitches onto a cable needle and crossing them over other stitches to create dimensional, twisted effects.
• Pocket integration: The left front includes a functional pocket created by casting off stitches, then knitting across a previously prepared pocket lining to create a hidden pocket opening.
• Shaped shoulders: Shoulder shaping is achieved through strategic cast-offs worked over multiple rows, creating a fitted armhole and shoulder line.

Stitches Used

The Rowan 12 Coat employs a combination of fundamental and decorative stitches:

• Garter stitch (g st): Used as the primary fabric throughout the coat, creating a textured, reversible surface that lies flat and provides excellent drape and warmth.
• Reverse stockinette stitch (rev st st): A single stitch of reverse stockinette is worked adjacent to the front opening edge border, creating a subtle textural contrast.
• Cable stitches: The main decorative element, created using the C6F abbreviation (cable 6 front), which involves slipping three stitches onto a cable needle, leaving them at the front of the work, knitting the next three stitches, then knitting the slipped stitches. This creates the characteristic twisted rope-like appearance of cables.
• Border stitch pattern: An 8-stitch garter stitch border with one reverse stockinette stitch is maintained along the front opening edge, providing a neat, finished edge and preventing curling.

Materials

The Rowan 12 Coat is designed to be knitted with Rowan Big Wool yarn, a bulky-weight option. The pattern requires 13, 14, 16, 17, or 19 balls of 100-gram skeins depending on the size being made (photographed in colorway Normandy 086). Knitting is worked on 10mm (US 15) needles, with a cable needle also required for working the cable stitches. A pair of stitch holders is needed to hold stitches during construction.

Tension and Gauge

Proper gauge is essential for achieving the correct finished measurements. The pattern specifies 10 stitches and 19 rows to 10 cm (4 inches) when measured over garter stitch, and 10½ stitches and 16 rows to 10 cm (4 inches) when measured over the cable pattern, both using 10mm (US 15) needles. Checking gauge before beginning ensures the coat will fit as intended.

Pattern Details

The coat begins with the left front panel, cast on with 38 to 48 stitches depending on size. The first two rows establish the stitch pattern with knit stitches across, except for the last nine stitches which include the purl and knit border detail. The pattern continues for 65 additional rows before the pocket placement row. The cable pattern from the chart is then introduced, with the chart beginning at row 2 and repeating every 32 rows throughout the remainder of the front pieces. The right front is worked in mirror image. Shoulder shaping is accomplished by casting off groups of stitches at regular intervals over multiple rows,