Rowan Ambra Waistcoat Knitting Pattern

Rowan Ambra Knitted Waistcoats by Martin Storey

What is Being Made

The Rowan Ambra pattern produces a collection of knitted waistcoats designed by Martin Storey. This downloadable PDF pattern offers five size options to fit bust measurements from 81–86 cm through to 122–127 cm (32–50 inches), with actual garment bust measurements ranging from 88 cm to 128 cm. The waistcoats are suitable for a range of body types and can be customized across multiple size grades.

Techniques Used

This pattern employs bottom-up construction, meaning the waistcoat is knitted starting from the lower edge and working upward toward the shoulders. The garment is worked flat on straight needles rather than in the round, and pieces are subsequently seamed together to create the finished waistcoat. This traditional approach allows for precise shaping and finishing details.

The pattern includes structured shaping techniques throughout. Armhole shaping is achieved through strategic cast-offs at the beginning of rows followed by decreases worked at each end of rows over multiple subsequent rows. Shoulder shaping uses stepped cast-offs to create a neat shoulder line, while neck shaping incorporates decreases at the neck edge worked in conjunction with shoulder cast-offs to form a comfortable neckline. All decreases are worked with specific directional techniques, including K2tog tbl (knit two together through back loop) and P2tog tbl (purl two together through back loop) to maintain consistent stitch appearance.

Stitches Used

The primary stitch throughout the waistcoat is stocking stitch (stockinette stitch), which creates a smooth, classic fabric with a neat appearance on the right side. The lower edge features a 2×2 ribbed cuff, worked as alternating knit 2 and purl 2 stitches. This ribbing provides elasticity and helps the waistcoat sit securely at the hem. The ribbed pattern is worked over multiple rows to create a finished edge before transitioning to the main stocking stitch body.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

The waistcoat is knitted using Rowan Alpaca Soft DK yarn, a delicate double-knitting weight fiber. Yarn quantities vary by size: the smallest size requires 5 balls of 50 grams each, while the largest size requires 7 balls of 50 grams. The pattern was photographed in the colorway Green Teal 213, though other shades within the Rowan Alpaca Soft DK range are suitable.

Two needle sizes are required to create the proper fabric tension and structure. 3¼mm (US 3) needles are used for casting on and working the ribbed cuff, while 4mm (US 6) needles are used for the main body of the waistcoat. The pattern specifies a tension of 22 stitches and 30 rows to 10 centimeters measured over stocking stitch using the 4mm needles. Achieving this tension is essential for the waistcoat to fit correctly across all five size grades.

Pattern Structure and Garment Dimensions

The back piece is cast on using the smaller needles and worked in ribbing before switching to the larger needles for the main body. The back is worked straight until it reaches a specific length (31 to 33 centimeters depending on size) before armhole shaping begins. Armhole shaping involves initial cast-offs followed by decreases over several rows, reducing the stitch count progressively. The armhole depth ranges from 19 to 25 centimeters across the size range.

The front piece follows the same construction method as the back until the armhole shaping point, after which it diverges to include neck shaping. The front neck is shaped by placing the center stitches on a holder and working each shoulder separately, incorporating decreases at the neck edge while simultaneously shaping the shoulders with stepped cast-offs. This creates a comfortable, well-proportioned neckline.

Shoulder shaping is accomplished through a series of cast-offs worked at the beginning of rows on the right side, creating a stepped decrease that forms the shoulder line. The back neck stitches are held and later grafted or seamed to complete the neckline. All pieces are then seamed together using mattress stitch or similar seaming techniques to create a polished, professional finish.