Rowan Ansonia Jumper Knitting Pattern

Rowan Ansonia Knitted Sweater and Waistcoat by Amy Herzog

What is Being Made

The Rowan Ansonia is a collection of knitted garments designed by Amy Herzog, featuring a cowl neck sweater and coordinating waistcoat options. This pattern offers multiple size options ranging from small (81-86 cm bust) through to extra-extra-large (122-127 cm bust), making it suitable for a wide range of body measurements. The sweater showcases a sophisticated cowl neckline detail, while the waistcoat provides a versatile layering piece that can be worn independently or coordinated with the main sweater design.

Techniques Used

The Ansonia employs several intermediate to advanced knitting techniques that create visual interest and structure in the finished garments. The construction method is bottom-up, meaning pieces are knitted from the lower edge upward, allowing for easier fitting adjustments during the knitting process. All pieces are worked flat on straight needles rather than in the round, which is then seamed together to create the final garment. This approach provides excellent stitch definition and allows for precise shaping.

Cable techniques feature prominently in the design, with multiple cable crossing abbreviations detailed in the pattern. These include Cr12F (cable right front), Cr12B (cable right back), and variations that combine knit and purl stitches for textured cable panels. Cable crossings are executed by slipping stitches onto a cable needle, holding them to the front or back of the work as specified, then working the remaining stitches before working from the cable needle. This creates the distinctive twisted rope-like texture characteristic of cable knit sweaters.

Stitches Used

The pattern utilizes fundamental and decorative stitches to build the garment structure and embellishment:

• Ribbing (K2, P2): Used for the lower edge and cuff sections, creating an elastic, fitted border that helps the garment maintain its shape. The ribbed sections are worked until the piece measures 5 cm before transitioning to the main stitch pattern.
• Stockinette stitch (st st): The primary stitch for the body of the sweater, created by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side. This creates a smooth, classic fabric surface.
• Cable stitches: Complex stitch combinations involving slipped stitches and cable needle manipulations that create raised, twisted patterns. The pattern specifies multiple cable crossing variations (Cr12F, Cr12B) that incorporate both knit and purl stitches (K1, P1) within the cable structure.
• Decrease stitches: K2tog (knit two together) and sl 1, K1, psso (slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over) are used for shaping, particularly around marker positions to create fitted waist shaping.
• Increase stitches: M1 (make one) increases are used to add stitches for waist shaping and garment expansion at specific points in the pattern.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

The Rowan Ansonia pattern accommodates two distinct yarn options, allowing knitters to choose based on fiber preference, climate suitability, and desired drape:

Hemp Tweed yarn is the primary yarn option, requiring 7 to 12 balls of 50-gram weight depending on the size being knitted (smaller sizes need 7 balls; larger sizes up to XXL require 12 balls). Hemp Tweed is photographed in the Pine colorway (shade 135). This yarn choice provides a natural, textured appearance with excellent durability.

Kid Classic yarn serves as an alternative option, requiring 7 to 11 balls of 50-gram weight depending on size selection. The Kid Classic version is photographed in the Pumice colorway (shade 888), offering a softer, more delicate aesthetic compared to the Hemp Tweed option.

The pattern requires multiple needle sizes to accommodate different stitch densities:

• 4½mm (US 7) needles: Used for initial ribbed sections on the Hemp Tweed version, creating a tighter gauge for the elastic cuff.
• 5mm (US 8) needles: Required for the Kid Classic yarn option, sized appropriately for that yarn's weight and fiber content.
• 5½mm (US 9) needles: Used for the main body stockinette stitch sections on the Hemp Tweed version, creating the appropriate fabric density.