Rowan Belton Jumper Knitting Pattern

Rowan Belton Knitted Sweater by Lisa Richardson

What is Being Made

The Belton is a knitted sweater designed by Lisa Richardson for Rowan. This garment is a classic pullover jumper available in five sizes to fit bust measurements from 81-86 cm (32-34 inches) up to 122-127 cm (48-50 inches). The sweater features a sophisticated construction with a focus on textured stitch patterns and cable detailing as the central design element.

Knitting Techniques Used

The Belton is constructed using several key knitting techniques that create its distinctive appearance and structure:

• Bottom-Up Construction: The sweater is worked from the bottom edge upward, allowing for straightforward sizing adjustments and a natural progression through the pattern.
• Worked Flat: The main body sections are knitted flat on straight needles rather than in the round, with pieces subsequently seamed together for finishing.
• Seamed Assembly: Individual pieces are knitted separately and then seamed together, a traditional approach that provides structure and allows for precise shaping.
• Cable Patterns: The sweater features prominent cable work, including complex multi-stitch cables such as C12B (cable 12 back) and C12F (cable 12 front) that create dramatic twisted rope effects. The centre cable panel measures 24 cm and increases and decreases in stitch count throughout the pattern to create a sculptural focal point.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The Belton employs a variety of knitting stitches to create its textured surface and structured design:

• Knit and Purl Stitches: The foundation of the pattern uses basic knit (K) and purl (P) stitches to create contrast and texture.
• Ribbed Pattern: Rib patterning is used throughout, creating vertical lines of elasticity that help the garment maintain its shape. The tension for rib pattern is measured at 18 stitches and 24 rows to 10 cm.
• Dot Pattern: A dot pattern is incorporated into the design, measured at 18 stitches and 40 rows to 10 cm, providing visual interest across the fabric.
• Cable Stitches: Multiple cable techniques are employed, including C4F (cable 4 front) and C4B (cable 4 back) for smaller cables, as well as the more complex C12B and C12F for the dramatic centre cable panel. These cables are worked using a cable needle to create the characteristic twisted effect.
• Increase and Decrease Stitches: The pattern uses M1P (make one purl) for increases and P2tog (purl two together) and sl 1, K1, psso (slip one, knit one, pass slipped stitch over) for decreases, allowing the cable panel to expand and contract as designed.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

The Belton pattern specifies high-quality materials suitable for a refined knitted garment:

• Yarn: The sweater is designed to be knitted in Rowan All Seasons Cotton, a versatile natural fibre yarn. Depending on size, the pattern requires 10-12 balls of All Seasons Cotton in the colourway Sky 268, with each ball weighing 50 grams. Additionally, 5-6 balls of Rowan Organic in colourway 178 are required, also in 50-gram balls. This combination of yarns creates a garment suitable for multiple seasons.
• Needles: The pattern calls for two pairs of needles in different sizes to create the appropriate tension across different stitch patterns. A pair of 4mm (US size 6) needles is used for ribbed sections, while a pair of 5mm (US size 8) needles is used for the main fabric. A 4mm circular needle no longer than 40 cm is also required, likely for neckline finishing. A cable needle is essential for managing the cable stitches throughout the pattern.

Tension and Gauge

Achieving the correct tension is critical for the Belton to fit properly. The pattern specifies two different tension measurements: 18 stitches and 40 rows to 10 cm when measured over the dot pattern using 5mm needles, and 18 stitches and 24 rows to 10 cm when measured over the rib pattern, also using 5mm needles. These different gauges reflect the varying densities of the stitch patterns