Rowan Burnished Jumper Knitting Pattern

Rowan Burnished Knitted Sweater by Martin Storey

What is Being Made

Burnished is a knitted sweater designed by Martin Storey for Rowan. This garment is a classic pullover sweater available in five sizes to fit bust measurements from 81-86 cm (32-34 inches) up to 122-127 cm (48-50 inches). The finished garment features actual bust measurements ranging from 96 cm to 138 cm (37¾ to 54¼ inches), providing comfortable ease for everyday wear.

Techniques Used

Burnished is constructed using several key knitting techniques. The sweater is worked flat on straight needles rather than in the round, meaning the front and back pieces are knitted separately and later seamed together. The garment is worked bottom-up, beginning with the ribbed cuffs and lower body before progressing upward toward the shoulders and neckline. The most distinctive design element is the use of cables, which feature prominently in the center panel of the sweater.

Stitches Used

The pattern employs a combination of fundamental and decorative stitches. The lower body begins with ribbing, which creates an elastic, fitted edge that helps the sweater maintain its shape. The ribbing pattern alternates knit and purl stitches in a structured sequence, providing stretch and recovery at the hem and cuffs.

The main body of the sweater features a cable pattern worked from a chart. The cable panel consists of 64 stitches and measures 18 centimeters across. This central cable design is flanked by sections of reverse stockinette stitch (abbreviated as rev st st), which creates a recessed background that makes the raised cable texture stand out visually. The combination of cables and reverse stockinette creates dimensional texture and visual interest.

Additional shaping techniques include strategic decreases at the armholes and along the sides to create a fitted silhouette. The pattern uses both cast-off decreases at the beginning of rows and single-stitch decreases worked at each end of rows to gradually reduce stitch counts as the armholes are shaped.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

Burnished is designed to be knitted with Softyak DK, a yarn weight classified as DK (double knitting). The pattern requires two yarn colors:

• Yarn A (Plain 232): 8, 9, 10, 10, or 11 balls of 50-gram weight, depending on size
• Yarn B (Cream 230): 3, 3, 3, 3, or 4 balls of 50-gram weight, depending on size

The two-color yarn scheme allows for creative color blocking, with Yarn A forming the main body and Yarn B introducing contrast, likely in the upper portion of the sweater.

The pattern calls for two pairs of needles in different sizes to accommodate the yarn weight and create appropriate fabric densities:

• 3¼mm (US 3) needles: Used for the initial ribbed cuffs and lower edge, which require smaller needles to create a tight, elastic fabric
• 4mm (US 6) needles: Used for the main body and cable pattern, creating a fabric with the correct drape and stitch definition

A cable needle is also required to work the cable stitches, allowing stitches to be temporarily held while others are worked to create the twisted cable effect.

Tension and Gauge

The pattern specifies a tension of 22 stitches and 30 rows to 10 centimeters when measured over stockinette stitch using 4mm (US 6) needles. The cable panel specifically measures 18 centimeters across. Achieving the correct tension is essential for the sweater to fit properly and for the cable panel to display the intended proportions and visual impact.