Rowan Dean Waistcoat Knitting Pattern

Rowan Dean Waistcoat by Martin Storey

What is Being Made

The Rowan Dean is a classic knitted waistcoat designed by Martin Storey. This garment is a sleeveless vest-style piece that fits close to the body with tailored shaping. The waistcoat is available in six sizes, ranging from 81–86 cm to 132–137 cm chest measurements (32–34 inches to 52–54 inches), making it suitable for a wide range of body types. The finished garment chest measurements span from 90 cm to 140 cm (35½ inches to 55 inches), providing a flattering fit across the size range.

Construction Method and Techniques

The Dean waistcoat is constructed using a bottom-up, worked-flat, seamed approach. This means the knitter begins at the lower edge and works upward in flat rows on straight needles, rather than working in the round. The pieces are knitted separately and then seamed together to create the finished garment. This traditional construction method allows for precise shaping and control over the fit.

The pattern incorporates side seam shaping to create a contoured silhouette. The waistcoat is shaped by increasing stitches at each side seam on the 21st row and then every 20 rows thereafter, which gradually widens the garment from the waist upward. Armhole shaping is achieved through strategic decreasing, with stitches cast off at the beginning of rows followed by gradual decreases along the edges to create a neat, fitted armhole opening.

The pattern includes shoulder and back neck shaping, which is worked by casting off stitches at regular intervals while simultaneously decreasing at the neck edge. This creates a properly proportioned neckline and shoulder line. The front and back pieces are worked separately, with the center front stitches held on a stitch holder while each side of the neck is completed individually to ensure symmetrical shaping.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The Dean waistcoat is worked entirely in pattern throughout, meaning a stitch pattern is maintained consistently across all pieces and shaping rows. The pattern instructions reference keeping "patt correct" during increases, decreases, and other shaping operations, indicating that the stitch pattern is integrated seamlessly into the garment construction rather than worked in stockinette stitch alone. This requires careful attention to pattern repeat placement and adjustment during shaping.

The pattern uses standard knitting abbreviations and techniques including:

• Slip stitches (referenced as "sl 1P" for slip 1 purlwise), which are used in the special abbreviations section
• Increases and decreases at side seams and armholes to shape the garment
• Casting off to finish edges and create structured armhole and neckline openings
• Alternating row decreases (noted as "foll alt rows" in the pattern), which create gradual, even shaping

Materials and Equipment

The Rowan Dean waistcoat is knitted using Rowan Felted Tweed yarn, a premium wool blend that provides texture and durability. The yarn requirements vary by size, ranging from 5 to 9 balls of 50-gram weight, depending on the chosen size. Larger sizes require more yardage to accommodate the increased chest measurements.

Two pairs of needles are required for this project:

• 3¼mm (US 3) needles – used for ribbed edgings and cuffs
• 3¾mm (US 5) needles – used for the main pattern work

The pattern specifies a tension (gauge) of 25 stitches and 55 rows to 10 centimeters measured over the stitch pattern using the 3¾mm (US 5) needles. Achieving the correct gauge is essential for the waistcoat to fit properly across all the available sizes. The pattern was photographed in the colorway Celadon 184, which showcases the finished garment's appearance.

Pattern Details and Skill Level

This pattern is presented as a downloadable PDF document (reference ZB220-00005 v.1) published by Rowan and MEZ Crafts UK Ltd. The pattern includes detailed schematic measurements and comprehensive shaping instructions, making it accessible to knitters with intermediate to advanced skills. The combination of flat construction, pattern work integration, and multiple shaping techniques requires careful reading and attention to detail throughout the project