Rowan Elmtree Waistcoat Knitting Pattern

Rowan Elmtree Waistcoat by Lisa Richardson

What is Being Made

The Rowan Elmtree is a knitted waistcoat designed by Lisa Richardson. This garment is available in five size options to fit bust measurements ranging from 81-86 cm (32-34 in) through to 122-127 cm (48-50 in), with corresponding actual garment bust measurements of 92 cm to 132 cm. The waistcoat features a structured design with shaped armholes, shoulders, and a collar extension at the back neck.

Techniques Used

This waistcoat is constructed using bottom-up knitting methodology, meaning the garment is worked from the lower edge upward. The pattern employs seamed construction, with separate pieces that are later joined together. All pieces are worked flat on straight needles rather than in the round, allowing for traditional row-by-row shaping and pattern work.

The pattern incorporates armhole shaping achieved through strategic cast-offs and decreases worked at regular intervals. Shoulder shaping is accomplished through stepped cast-offs at the beginning of rows to create angled shoulder seams. The design includes collar shaping with a back neck extension created by casting on additional stitches mid-garment to form the collar section, which measures 18 cm from the back neck cast-on stitches.

Stitches and Pattern Work

The Elmtree utilizes a stitch pattern that is worked consistently across the back, left front, and other pieces. The pattern is maintained throughout armhole and shoulder shaping, requiring the knitter to keep pattern correct while simultaneously executing decreases and cast-offs at armhole edges. The pattern includes a special abbreviation: K1 below, which means knitting into the next stitch one row below while simultaneously slipping off the stitch above—a decorative or textural technique that adds visual interest to the finished garment.

Materials

The Rowan Elmtree is knitted using Rowan Felted Tweed yarn, a wool-based yarn suitable for structured garments. The pattern requires 8 to 12 balls of 50-gram yarn depending on the size selected (ranging from 8 x 50gm for smaller sizes to 12 x 50gm for the largest size). The photographed sample is worked in Avocado 161, a colorway option available in the Felted Tweed range.

Knitting is worked on 4½mm (US 7) needles, one pair of which is required. The recommended tension is 21 stitches and 39 rows measured over 10 cm using the 4½mm needles, which should be checked before beginning to ensure proper garment fit and drape.

Pattern Details

The back piece is cast on and worked in pattern until the armhole shaping begins. The left front follows the same pattern as the back until reaching the armhole, where it begins its own shaping sequence. Armhole decreases are worked consistently across pieces, with cast-offs at the beginning of rows followed by decreases at armhole edges over several rows. The shoulder shaping uses a combination of cast-offs at the beginning of alternating rows, creating the angled shoulder line. The collar extension is formed by casting on additional stitches partway through the left front, creating a back neck extension that continues in pattern for 18 cm.