Rowan Exmoor Jumper Knitting Pattern

Rowan Exmoor Knitted Sweater by Lisa Richardson

What is Being Made

Exmoor is a fitted knitted sweater designed by Lisa Richardson for Rowan. This garment features sophisticated waist shaping through strategically placed darts, creating a tailored silhouette. The sweater is available in five sizes: Small (to fit bust 81-86 cm / 32-34 in), Medium (91-97 cm / 36-38 in), Large (102-107 cm / 40-42 in), Extra Large (112-117 cm / 44-46 in), and Extra Extra Large (122-127 cm / 48-50 in).

Knitting Techniques Used

Exmoor employs several key knitting techniques to achieve its refined construction:

• Bottom-Up Construction: The sweater is knitted from the bottom upward, allowing for straightforward shaping and fitting adjustments as you progress.
• Worked Flat: The main body pieces are worked flat on straight needles rather than in the round, then seamed together for a professional finish.
• Seamed Construction: Pieces are carefully seamed together, contributing to the garment's structured appearance and precise fit.
• Cable Knitting: The pattern incorporates cable stitches as a decorative and textural element, adding visual interest and dimension to the design.
• Waist Dart Shaping: The pattern uses a series of strategically placed decreases (P2tog and P2tog tbl) at marked positions to create fitted waist darts. These decreases are worked at specific intervals using colored markers to track positioning, resulting in a contoured, tailored fit.
• Reverse Stockinette Stitch Detailing: Reverse stockinette stitch is used as a background or accent element, creating textural contrast within the pattern.

Stitches Used

The Exmoor pattern incorporates fundamental and intermediate knitting stitches:

• Knit Stitch (K): The primary stitch forming the base fabric.
• Purl Stitch (P): Used to create reverse stockinette sections and textural variation.
• Purl Two Together (P2tog): A left-leaning decrease used for waist dart shaping.
• Purl Two Together Through Back Loop (P2tog tbl): A right-leaning decrease used for waist dart shaping, creating symmetrical decreases on either side of markers.
• Cable Four Back (C4B): Slip next 2 stitches onto cable needle and leave at back of work, knit 2 stitches, then knit 2 stitches from cable needle. This creates the cable texture that defines the pattern.
• Stockinette Stitch: The primary fabric structure, created by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side.
• Reverse Stockinette Stitch: Used as a textural element, created by reversing the stockinette pattern.

Materials and Equipment

Exmoor requires specific materials to achieve the intended fabric quality and fit:

• Yarn: Rowan Hemp Tweed, 14-21 balls of 50 grams depending on size (photographed in colorway Teal 131). This yarn choice provides structure and drape suitable for a fitted sweater with cable details.
• Needles: 1 pair of 4mm (US 6) needles for ribbing and initial cast-on, 1 pair of 4½mm (US 7) needles for main pattern work, 1 pair of 4mm (US 6) circular needle at least 60 cm long for neckline finishing, and a cable needle for working cable stitches.
• Tension: 24 stitches and 25 rows to 10 cm measured over pattern using 4½mm (US 7) needles. Achieving correct tension is essential for proper fit, particularly given the fitted nature of the waist shaping.
• Notions: Colored markers (red, blue, green, black, and yellow) are essential for tracking waist dart positions throughout construction.

Pattern Construction Details

The Exmoor pattern demonstrates advanced shaping methodology. The waist dart sh