Rowan Heike Jumper Knitting Pattern

Rowan Heike Sweater by Martin Storey

What is Being Made

Rowan Heike is a knitted sweater designed by Martin Storey, available in five size options to fit bust measurements from 81–86 cm through to 122–127 cm. This is a classic pullover-style jumper featuring a raglan armhole construction and button front opening details.

Knitting Techniques Used

This sweater employs several key knitting techniques to achieve its finished structure:

• Bottom-up construction: The sweater is worked from the lower edge upward, allowing for straightforward sizing adjustments and a logical progression through the pattern.
• Worked flat: All pieces are knitted on straight needles in flat rows rather than in the round, creating individual front, back, and sleeve components that are later seamed together.
• Seamed assembly: The individual pieces are joined using seaming techniques to create the finished garment, providing clean, professional edges.
• Striped colorwork: The design incorporates horizontal stripes using three coordinated yarn colors, adding visual interest and depth to the sweater.
• Raglan armhole shaping: Raglan decreases are worked at the armhole edges, creating diagonal seam lines from the underarm to the neckline for a comfortable, classic fit.

Stitches and Stitch Details

The sweater is primarily constructed using stockinette stitch (stocking stitch), the fundamental knit fabric that forms the main body of the garment. Shaping is achieved through strategic decreasing techniques including K2tog (knit two together) and K2tog tbl (knit two together through the back loop) to create smooth raglan decreases. The pattern also incorporates yarn forward (yfwd) techniques to create buttonholes along the front opening, allowing for functional button closures.

Yarn and Materials

Rowan Heike is designed to be worked in Rowan Felted Tweed Aran, a medium-weight yarn supplied in three colors:

• Yarn A – Ultra 745: The primary color, used in quantities ranging from 12 to 25 x 50gm balls depending on size.
• Yarn B – Cherry 732: A contrast color used for striping, requiring 1 x 50gm ball across all sizes.
• Yarn C – Dark Violet 738: A second contrast color for striping, used in quantities from 5 to 7 x 50gm balls depending on size.

Needles and Notions

The pattern requires two pairs of needles in different sizes to manage tension and create proper fabric density:

• 4mm (US 6) needles: Used for cast-on and ribbed edges to create a snug, elastic finish.
• 5mm (US 8) needles: The main working needles for the body of the sweater, producing the correct gauge of 16 stitches and 23 rows over 10 centimeters in stockinette stitch.

The sweater is finished with 5 buttons (RW5030 from Bedecked), which are worked into the front opening using yarn forward buttonhole techniques.

Garment Construction Details

The back and front pieces are worked in stockinette stitch with horizontal stripes, beginning with yarn C only and then introducing the striped pattern. The back piece is worked straight until reaching approximately 33–37 centimeters in length, at which point raglan armhole shaping begins. Stitches are decreased at regular intervals—initially at the armhole edges over consecutive rows, then continuing on alternating rows—to create the characteristic diagonal raglan seams.

The front piece follows the same construction as the back until fewer stitches remain in the raglan shaping phase. At this point, additional shaping is introduced to create the left front raglan opening, with decreases worked strategically to maintain stitch pattern integrity. Buttonholes are incorporated into the front using yarn forward techniques, spaced to accommodate the five buttons that close the garment.

The tension specification of 16 stitches and 23 rows to 10 centimeters over stockinette stitch using 5mm needles is critical for achieving the correct finished measurements and ensuring proper fit across all five size options.