Rowan Helvellyn Cardigan Knitting Pattern

Rowan Helvellyn Cardigan by Lisa Richardson

What is Being Made

The Rowan Helvellyn is a knitted cardigan designed by Lisa Richardson. This garment is available in five sizes to fit bust measurements ranging from 81-86 cm (32-34 inches) through to 122-127 cm (48-50 inches), with finished bust measurements from 92.5 cm (36½ inches) to 132.5 cm (52¼ inches). The cardigan features a structured silhouette with shaping at the waist and armholes, making it a tailored layering piece suitable for various occasions.

Knitting Techniques

The Helvellyn cardigan employs several key knitting techniques to create its finished design. The garment is worked flat on straight needles, meaning each piece is knitted in rows rather than in the round. The construction method is bottom-up and seamed, with the body and sleeves knitted separately from the bottom edge upward, then joined together using seaming techniques for a professional finish.

A notable design feature is the use of stranded colorwork, also known as Fair Isle technique. This method is applied to the body of the cardigan, where two colors are carried across the row to create a patterned fabric. The stranded colorwork section is worked entirely in stockinette stitch and follows a chart pattern, adding visual interest and texture to the piece. After the patterned section is complete, the knitter breaks off the contrasting colors and continues with the main yarn color for the remainder of the garment.

Stitches Used

The primary stitch throughout the Helvellyn cardigan is stockinette stitch (st st), which creates a smooth, classic fabric with a knit side and purl side. Stockinette stitch is worked by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side when working flat. This fundamental stitch provides an excellent base for the stranded colorwork pattern featured on the body.

Shaping is achieved through strategic increases and decreases. The pattern includes decrease stitches at each end of specific rows to create waist shaping and armhole definition. Conversely, increase stitches are worked at each end of rows to add fullness through the hip area, creating a contoured fit. These shaping techniques are distributed across multiple rows to ensure gradual, even shaping that maintains the integrity of the stockinette stitch fabric.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

The Helvellyn cardigan is designed to be knitted with Rowan Valley Tweed yarn. The pattern calls for multiple colors from this yarn line, each in 50-gram balls. The color palette includes Malham (5, 5, 6, 6, or 7 balls depending on size), Curlew (1 ball for all sizes), Marsh Orchid (1 ball for all sizes), Hardraw (1 ball for all sizes), and Bell Busk (1 ball for all sizes). This multi-color approach allows knitters to create the stranded colorwork pattern while maintaining a cohesive, coordinated look.

Three different needle sizes are required to achieve the proper gauge and fabric characteristics. The pattern uses 3mm (US 2/3) needles, 3¼mm (US 3) needles, and 3¾mm (US 5) needles. The needles are used in sequence throughout the pattern: smaller needles are typically used for ribbed edgings and initial sections, while larger needles accommodate the main body fabric. This graduated needle approach helps create neat edges and proper tension transitions between different sections of the cardigan.

Pattern Structure and Construction Details

The cardigan begins with ribbed edging worked on the smallest needles, providing elasticity and a finished edge. The pattern then progresses to larger needles for the main body, which is worked in stockinette stitch. The Fair Isle colorwork section is introduced partway through the body, adding visual complexity and interest to the finished piece.

Waist shaping is incorporated through strategic decreases followed by increases, creating a fitted silhouette. The armholes are shaped through a series of cast-offs at the beginning of rows, followed by decreases worked at the edges over several rows. This multi-step shaping method ensures smooth, professional-looking armhole curves. The pattern includes detailed instructions for shaping the shoulders and back neck, allowing for a well-fitted neckline and proper shoulder placement.