Rowan Mitchum Cardigan Knitting Pattern

Rowan Mitchum Cardigan by Martin Storey

What is Being Made

The Rowan Mitchum is a knitted cardigan designed by Martin Storey. This garment is available in six sizes to fit chest measurements ranging from 81–86 cm (32–34 inches) up to 132–137 cm (52–54 inches), with corresponding finished chest measurements of 100 cm to 151 cm. The cardigan features a classic button-front closure with eight buttons and is constructed using traditional knitting techniques to create a sophisticated, wearable piece.

Techniques Used

The Mitchum cardigan is worked using several key knitting techniques that define its construction and visual appeal:

• Bottom-Up Construction: The garment is knitted from the bottom edge upward, allowing for straightforward shaping and the ability to try on the piece as it progresses.
• Worked Flat: All pieces are knitted flat on straight needles rather than in the round, which means each piece has two finished edges that are later seamed together.
• Cable Knitting: The pattern incorporates cable stitches that create textured, twisted columns running through the fabric. These cables are worked using a cable needle to cross stitches over one another, producing the characteristic raised, rope-like appearance.
• Seamed Construction: Individual pieces (front panels, back, and sleeves) are knitted separately and then sewn together using mattress stitch or similar seaming methods, creating clean, professional-looking seams.
• Shaping Techniques: The cardigan uses decreases at the armholes and shoulders to create proper garment fit. Techniques include slip-stitch decreases (slip 1, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over) and knit/purl decreases to shape the neckline and armhole edges.

Stitches Used

The Mitchum cardigan employs a combination of fundamental and decorative stitches:

• Stockinette Stitch: The primary background stitch, created by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side, providing a smooth, classic fabric base.
• Cable Stitches: Worked according to a stitch chart (rows 5 to 24 are repeated throughout the pattern), these stitches create the textured cable pattern that runs through the garment. The pattern is maintained consistently across the front and back pieces.
• Ribbing: Used at cuffs, hem, and button bands to create elastic edges that hug the body and prevent rolling.
• Decrease Stitches: Various decreases including knit 2 together (K2tog), purl 2 together (P2tog), and slip-stitch decreases are used for shaping armholes, shoulders, and necklines.

Materials

The Mitchum cardigan is designed to be knitted with specific materials that contribute to its finished appearance and drape:

• Yarn: Rowan Felted Tweed Aran, a worsted-weight yarn supplied in 50-gram balls. The pattern shown is photographed in the colorway Clay 777. Yardage requirements range from 18 balls for the smallest size to 28 balls for the largest size, providing sufficient yarn for the complete garment across all six sizes.
• Needles: The pattern requires two pairs of needles—4mm (US 6) needles for ribbed edgings and 5mm (US 8) needles for the main fabric. The change from smaller to larger needles creates the transition from fitted ribbing to the more relaxed patterned body.
• Cable Needle: A cable needle is essential for working the cable stitches that define the pattern texture.
• Buttons: Eight BF8147 buttons from Groves & Banks are specified for the front closure.

Pattern Specifications

The pattern is graded across six sizes with detailed shaping instructions. Tension is measured at 23.5 stitches and 25 rows to 10 centimeters over the patterned fabric using 5mm needles. The back piece is worked straight until the armhole measures between 20 and 27.5 centimeters depending on size, with decreases worked at regular intervals to shape the armholes and shoulders. The pattern includes comprehensive instructions for shaping the back neck and working each front shoulder separately to accommodate the button band and neckline shaping.