Rowan Oceana Coat Knitting Pattern

Rowan Oceana Knitted Coat by Martin Storey

What is Being Made

Oceana is a sophisticated knitted coat designed by Martin Storey for Rowan. This garment is a seamed, structured coat worked in a bottom-up construction method, available in five size options to fit bust measurements from 81–127 cm (32–50 inches). The finished coat features an actual bust measurement range of 130–170 cm (51¼–67 inches), providing comfortable ease for layering. The design showcases prominent cable panel work as its signature decorative element, combined with textured stitch patterns for visual interest and depth.

Techniques Used

This knitted coat employs several key construction techniques that define its structure and appearance:

• Bottom-Up Construction: The garment is worked from the lower edge upward, allowing for straightforward shaping and the ability to try on the piece as it progresses.
• Worked Flat: Pieces are knitted flat on straight needles rather than in the round, creating separate front and back panels that are later seamed together.
• Seamed Assembly: Individual pieces are joined using seaming techniques, which creates clean, professional finishing and allows for precise garment shaping.
• Cable Panel Integration: Multiple cable panels are strategically placed and worked as part of the overall stitch pattern, requiring careful stitch management and pattern coordination across rows.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The Oceana coat incorporates a variety of knitting stitches to create its textured, visually complex appearance:

• Cable Panels: Four distinct cable panels form the primary decorative feature of the garment. These panels consist of 50 stitches each and are worked according to specific cable panel instructions that create twisted, rope-like textures characteristic of cable knitting.
• Moss Stitch: Worked at the sides and center of the garment, moss stitch (alternating knit and purl stitches on each row) provides a subtle, bumpy texture that complements the bolder cable panels.
• Reverse Stockinette Stitch: Two stitches of reverse stockinette stitch separate pairs of cable panels, creating visual breathing room between the textured elements.
• Garter Stitch: The lower edge begins with 9 rows of garter stitch (knit every row), which creates a sturdy, non-curling hem and provides a neat foundation for the garment.
• Increases: Strategic make-one (M1) increases are incorporated during the pattern setup to expand the stitch count and shape the garment appropriately.

Materials and Tools

The Oceana coat is designed to be worked with specific yarn and needle requirements:

• Yarn: Rowan Denim Revive, a durable and versatile yarn, is used for this project. The pattern requires 31–40 balls of 50-gram yarn depending on the chosen size. The photographed sample is worked in Cream 210, showcasing the cable and texture details in a neutral colorway.
• Needles: The pattern calls for 3¼mm (US 3) needles for the initial garter stitch ribbing and main fabric, and 3¾mm (US 5) needles for specific sections. A 3¼mm (US 3) circular needle at least 140 cm long is also required, likely for managing large stitch counts or for finishing details. A cable needle is essential for manipulating stitches when working the cable panels.

Pattern Structure and Design Details

The Oceana coat demonstrates thoughtful garment construction with multiple integrated design elements. The back and front pieces are shaped through strategic cast-offs at the shoulders, with varying numbers of stitches cast off across different rows to create a gradual, fitted shoulder line. The pattern maintains stitch integrity throughout shaping, ensuring that cable panels and textured stitches remain correctly aligned even as the garment is decreased. The center back features a marked stitch for reference during assembly, and the overall construction method ensures that the prominent cable work remains a focal point throughout the finished coat.