Rowan Shaded Diamond Jumper Knitting Pattern

Rowan Shaded Diamond Knitted Sweater by Kaffe Fassett

What Is Being Made

The Rowan Shaded Diamond is a knitted sweater designed by renowned colorwork artist Kaffe Fassett. This garment features a sophisticated intarsia diamond pattern worked in multiple coordinated yarn colors. The sweater is available in five sizes, with actual bust measurements ranging from 97.5 cm (38½ inches) to 137.5 cm (54¼ inches), making it suitable for a wide range of body types.

Techniques Used

Intarsia Colorwork: The primary technique featured in this pattern is intarsia, a method of knitting with multiple colors where different colored yarns are used to create distinct sections of the design. Unlike stranded colorwork, intarsia allows for large blocks of color without carrying yarn across the back of the work, resulting in a flatter, less bulky fabric that is ideal for garments requiring a smooth drape.

Bottom-Up Construction: This sweater is worked from the bottom upward, beginning with the back piece. This construction method allows knitters to try on the garment as it progresses and make adjustments to length as needed.

Flat Knitting: The pattern is worked flat on straight needles rather than in the round, meaning pieces are knitted back and forth in rows and subsequently seamed together.

Stitches Used

• Stockinette Stitch (Stocking Stitch): The main fabric is worked in patterned stockinette stitch, which creates a smooth, classic knit fabric with a distinctive V-pattern texture on the right side. This stitch is ideal for displaying colorwork patterns clearly.
• Ribbed Knit: The lower edge begins with a ribbed section created by alternating knit and purl stitches (K1, P1 rib). This elastic ribbing helps the sweater conform to the body and prevents rolling at the edges. The ribbed section is worked for 24 rows total using the smaller needles before transitioning to stockinette stitch.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

Yarn: This pattern calls for Rowan Felted Tweed yarn, a wool-based yarn supplied in 50-gram balls. The design incorporates 16 distinct colors, each identified by Rowan's specific color names: Ancient, Duck Egg, Watery, Seafarer, Delft, Pine, Scree, Lotus Leaf, Cinnamon, Bilberry, Seasalter, Celadon, Iris, Ginger, Camel, and Amethyst. Yarn quantities vary by size, with smaller sizes requiring approximately 11–12 balls total and larger sizes requiring up to 15 balls. The Felted Tweed yarn provides excellent stitch definition for displaying the intarsia diamond pattern.

Needles: The pattern requires two pairs of needles in different sizes. A 3¼mm (UK size 10, US size 3) needle is used for the ribbed cuff sections to create a tighter gauge. A 3¾mm (UK size 9, US size 5) needle is used for the main body and patterned stockinette sections to achieve the required gauge.

Tension and Gauge

The pattern specifies a tension of 24 stitches and 32 rows to 10 centimeters, measured over patterned stockinette stitch using the 3¾mm (US 5) needles. Achieving correct tension is essential for proper garment fit and is particularly important when working intarsia colorwork, as tension inconsistencies can distort the diamond pattern.

Pattern Structure

The back piece is cast on using the smaller needles and yarn in Duck Egg color, beginning with 105 to 145 stitches depending on size. After the ribbed cuff is completed, the knitter switches to the larger needles and Ancient yarn to begin the intarsia diamond pattern from a chart. The pattern progresses through 190 to 214 chart rows depending on size, with shaping occurring at the armholes and shoulders. The construction includes decreasing stitches at the armhole edges and casting off stitches for shoulder shaping, demonstrating intermediate-level garment construction techniques.