Rowan Wheatley Cardigan Knitting Pattern

Wheatley Cardigan by Martin Storey

What is Being Made

Wheatley is a seamed cardigan pattern designed by Martin Storey for Rowan. This garment is worked in a bottom-up construction method and is available in seven sizes ranging from XS to 2XL, with finished chest measurements from 38 inches (97 cm) to 50 inches (127 cm). The cardigan features a classic silhouette with set-in sleeves, front button closures, and functional patch pockets.

Techniques Used

This knitting pattern employs several intermediate to advanced techniques that create visual interest and structural integrity:

• Bottom-up construction: The cardigan is knitted from the lower edge upward, allowing knitters to try on the garment as it progresses and adjust length as needed.
• Seamed assembly: Individual pieces—back, fronts, sleeves, and pocket linings—are knitted flat and then sewn together using mattress stitch or similar seaming techniques for a professional finish.
• Stranded colorwork: The pattern incorporates stranded knitting, a technique where two yarn colors are carried across the row to create a patterned fabric. This adds visual depth and texture to the cardigan while maintaining structural stability.
• Worked flat: All pieces are knitted back and forth on straight needles rather than in the round, making this pattern accessible to knitters who prefer flat knitting methods.
• Shaping techniques: The pattern includes shoulder shaping through strategic cast-offs, neck shaping with stitch holders for separate side completion, and waist shaping for a tailored fit.

Stitches Used

The Wheatley cardigan utilizes fundamental knitting stitches combined to create texture and structure:

• Ribbing (K1, P1): Used for the lower edge and cuffs to create elasticity and a neat, finished appearance. The back begins with 14 rows of 1x1 ribbing worked on 6mm needles before transitioning to the larger gauge.
• Stockinette stitch (st st): The primary stitch for the main body and sleeves, created by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side. This produces a smooth, classic fabric suitable for displaying colorwork.
• Stranded colorwork pattern: The pattern instructions show alternating rows of single stitches in yarn A and yarn B (for example, "K1 using yarn A, K1 using yarn B"), creating a two-color patterned fabric that adds visual interest while maintaining consistent fabric density.
• Pocket linings: Worked in stockinette stitch on 7mm needles, these are knitted separately and later integrated into the front pieces for functional patch pockets.

Materials

Yarn: The pattern calls for Rowan Cocoon, a luxurious bulky-weight yarn. The color palette includes Mountain (shade 805) as the primary color, requiring 8 to 11 balls of 100-gram weight depending on size, and Alpine (shade 802) as the contrast color, requiring 2 balls of 100-gram weight across all sizes. Rowan Cocoon is known for its soft, warm qualities, making it ideal for a comfortable cardigan.

Needles: The pattern requires two needle sizes to achieve proper gauge and fabric characteristics. A 6mm (US 10) needle is used for ribbed edgings and initial rows, while a 7mm (US 10½) needle is used for the main body and colorwork sections. This needle size progression creates a neat, fitted edge while allowing the patterned fabric to bloom slightly.

Notions: The cardigan requires 5 buttons (Coats reference 0251) for front closure, and stitch holders are essential for managing stitches during neck shaping.

Gauge and Fit

The pattern specifies a tension of 14 stitches and 16 rows to 10 centimeters (approximately 4 inches) measured over the stranded pattern using 7mm needles. Achieving correct gauge is critical for proper fit, as the cardigan is sized for specific chest measurements. The seven size options accommodate a wide range of body types, from petite (XS at 38 inches) to generous (2XL at 50 inches).