Shibui Knits Emboss Cardigan Knitting Pattern

Shibui Knits Emboss Textured Coat

What Is Being Made

The Emboss is a textured coat designed by Shellie Anderson for Shibui Knits. This modern cardigan-style coat features an innovative construction that allows it to be worn open or closed, combining warmth with contemporary styling. The garment showcases a distinctive textured appearance created through the Stamen Stitch pattern, which adds visual and tactile interest across the entire piece. The coat includes a generous 4-inch overlap at each front, providing both functional closure and design detail.

Techniques Used

The Emboss is constructed using a bottom-up, seamed, and worked-flat approach. The body is worked from the bottom up in one piece to the armholes, then divided to create separate sections for the fronts and back. The sleeves are worked flat and set-in, requiring seaming to attach them to the body. The pattern uses a 3-Needle Bind-Off technique for finishing, which creates a secure and professional seam line. This construction method allows for careful shaping and fitting throughout the garment.

Stitches Used

The primary stitch pattern is the Stamen Stitch, which is worked throughout the entire garment. The Stamen Stitch is a textured pattern that alternates between knit and slip stitches across the rows. Specifically, the pattern includes:

• Row 1 (Wrong Side): Knit 2, then repeat slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back and knit 1 to the end of the row
• Rows 2 and 4 (Right Side): Knit all stitches
• Row 3 (Wrong Side): Knit 1, then repeat slip 1 stitch purlwise with yarn in back and knit 1 to the last two stitches, knit 2

This stitch pattern creates the textured effect that defines the Emboss coat's visual character. The slip stitches create vertical lines and dimensional texture, while the knit rows provide structure and definition to the pattern.

Materials

The Emboss is designed to be worked with Shibui Maai yarn held double throughout the entire project. Maai is a luxury yarn composed of 70% superbaby alpaca and 30% fine merino, offering softness and breathability. The yarn is worked with 2 strands held together, which creates additional loft and contributes to the coat's warmth and drape. Due to the chainette structure of Maai, the yarn relaxes after washing, making it essential to swatch, wash, and block accurately before measuring gauge.

The pattern requires 15 to 21 skeins of Maai depending on size, with each skein containing 175 yards and weighing 50 grams. The sample shown in the pattern is knitted in Ivory.

Tools and Gauge

The Emboss is worked on size 10.5 (6.5 mm) circular needles measuring 32 inches in length, with a spare size 10.5 needle required for the 3-Needle Bind-Off technique. Additional tools include stitch holders for managing stitches during construction and a tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends.

The gauge is 17 stitches and 34 rows over 4 inches in the Stamen Stitch pattern, measured with 2 strands of Maai held together after blocking. Accurate gauge is critical for this project, as the yarn's chainette structure causes it to relax after washing, affecting final measurements and fit.

Sizing and Fit

The Emboss is available in five sizes: XS, S, M, L, and XL, designed to fit bust sizes of 32.5, 34.5, 36.5, 40.5, and 44.5 inches respectively after blocking. The finished bust circumference ranges from 41 to 53 inches, with approximately 8 inches of positive ease built into the design. The back length ranges from 27.5 to 29.5 inches from shoulder, accommodating different heights and proportions. The pattern is rated as Intermediate skill level, requiring competence with textured stitch patterns, set-in sleeves, and seaming techniques.