Smock Jacket Knitting Pattern

Smock Jacket in Rowan Pure Alpaca

What is Being Made

This is a knitted smock jacket designed by Martin Storey, featuring a classic smock silhouette with a comfortable, relaxed fit. The garment is available in nine sizes ranging from 71-76 cm (28-30 inches) chest to 152-157 cm (60-62 inches) chest, with corresponding finished chest measurements from 82.5 cm to 164.5 cm. The jacket includes a front opening with button closure, long sleeves with raglan armhole shaping, and a neckband finish.

Techniques Used

This advanced beginner knitting project employs several key techniques to create its distinctive structure and appearance:

• Ribbed edging – The front opening edge features a combination of stockinette stitch and garter stitch across 17 stitches, creating a structured border
• Raglan armhole shaping – The jacket uses raglan decreases to create sloped armholes that extend to the neckline, a hallmark of smock jacket construction
• Increases and decreases – Strategic increases are worked at the beginning of rows to shape the garment, with decreases used for armhole shaping
• Stitch pattern transitions – The pattern shifts from ribbed stitching at the cuff to stockinette stitch in the body, creating visual and textural interest
• Seam construction – The pattern references back side seam increases, indicating the garment is constructed with seamed pieces rather than seamless in-the-round knitting

Stitches Used

The Smock Jacket utilizes fundamental knitting stitches combined to achieve its textured appearance:

• Knit stitch (K) – The primary stitch forming the main fabric
• Purl stitch (P) – Used in ribbing and selected areas to create texture and definition
• Stockinette stitch (st st) – The dominant stitch in the body of the jacket, created by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side, producing a smooth, classic fabric
• Garter stitch (g st) – Worked in the front opening edge to provide structure and prevent rolling
• Ribbing (K1, P1) – Used extensively throughout the pattern to create elasticity and definition, particularly in the opening edge and lower sections

Materials

The Smock Jacket is knitted using Rowan Pure Alpaca, a luxurious yarn that provides softness and warmth. Yarn requirements range from 9 to 18 balls of 50-gram skeins depending on the finished size, with the pattern photographed in the Rust colorway (shade 122). The project calls for two pairs of needles: 3¼mm (US 3) needles for the ribbed cuff and initial cast-on, and 3¾mm (US 5) needles for the main body knitting. The jacket is finished with eight grey corozo buttons measuring 18mm (TGB2869 from Textile Garden) for the front closure. Tension is established at 23 stitches and 29 rows to 10 centimeters measured over stockinette stitch using the 3¾mm needles, which is essential for achieving the correct finished measurements.