String Darlene Two-Way Vest Waistcoat Knitting Pattern

String Darlene Two-Way Vest

What is Being Made

The Darlene Two-Way Vest is a sophisticated knitted waistcoat designed by Lidia Karabinech for String Yarns. This garment features a reversible design concept, allowing the vest to be worn in two different ways. The vest is available in two size ranges: S/M/L and L/XL/2XL, with finished bust measurements of 48"/122 cm and 55"/139.5 cm respectively. The length from the top of the armhole measures 24"/61 cm for the smaller size and 25"/63.5 cm for the larger size. The overlapped front closure creates a flattering, adjustable fit suitable for layering over various garments.

Techniques Used

The Darlene Two-Way Vest is constructed using several key knitting techniques that create both visual interest and structural integrity. The garment is worked flat on straight needles for the main body pieces, then seamed together to create the finished vest. The construction method is bottom-up, meaning knitting begins at the cast-on edge and progresses upward toward the armholes and neckline. Cable work is incorporated into the design, adding textural depth and a classic, refined aesthetic. The use of both straight needles and circular needles of different lengths allows for efficient construction of various sections, including the body, armhole edgings, and front and top back edging. Circular needles are used for picking up stitches along edges to create finished ribbed edgings, demonstrating professional finishing techniques.

Stitches Used

The Darlene Two-Way Vest employs a limited but effective palette of stitches that create visual texture and structure. The primary stitch pattern is Broken Rib, which alternates knit and purl stitches in a specific sequence across rows. The Broken Rib pattern is worked over an even number of stitches, with Rows 1–4 working *K1, P1* and Rows 5–8 working *P1, K1*, creating a reversible ribbed texture that changes appearance depending on which side is viewed. This stitch pattern is used for the main body of the vest, contributing to the two-way versatility of the design. K1, P1 Rib is used for the initial ribbing at the cast-on edge, providing elasticity and a finished appearance at the lower edge. Cable stitches are worked over 9 stitches using a cable needle, with the pattern repeating every 8 rows. The cable technique involves slipping stitches to a cable needle and holding them to either the front or back of the work while knitting the next stitches, then knitting the held stitches to create the characteristic twisted cable texture. Additional finishing stitches include binding off in rib, which maintains the elastic quality of the ribbed edges.

Materials

The Darlene Two-Way Vest is designed to be knitted with STRING BREEZE yarn, a luxurious blend consisting of 60% cotton, 20% cashmere, and 20% silk. This fiber composition creates a garment with excellent breathability from the cotton content, softness and warmth from the cashmere, and a subtle sheen and drape from the silk. The yarn is available in color 200073 pewter, a neutral gray tone suitable for versatile styling. Each ball contains 136 yards (125 meters) and weighs 1.75 ounces (50 grams). The pattern requires 12 balls of yarn for sizes S/M/L and 14 balls for sizes L/XL/2XL. Construction requires one pair of size 7 (4.5mm) straight needles, one 16"/40 cm circular needle in size 7 (4.5mm), and one 32"/80 cm circular needle in the same size, allowing the knitter to choose needle size based on personal gauge. A cable needle is essential for working the cable stitches, and stitch holders or waste yarn are needed to hold stitches during construction. Stitch markers assist in tracking pattern repeats and construction points, while a yarn needle is used for seaming pieces together and weaving in ends.

Gauge and Construction Details

Achieving the correct gauge is essential for the proper fit of the Darlene Two-Way Vest. The pattern specifies a gauge of 18 stitches and 24 rows over 4 inches (10 centimeters) when working in the Broken Rib pattern. The back piece is cast on with 108 stitches for sizes S/M/L and 124 stitches for sizes L/XL/2XL, beginning with 10 rows of K1, P1 Rib before transitioning to the