Twist Collective Helenium Jumper Knitting Pattern

Twist Collective Helenium Sweater

What Is Being Made

Helenium is a seamless, bottom-up knit sweater designed by Amanda Scheuzger. This pullover features a sophisticated brioche pattern worked primarily in the round, offering a contemporary construction method that minimizes finishing work. The sweater is available in six sizes ranging from 32 ¾" to 54" bust measurement, with finished lengths between 24 ¼" and 27" depending on size. The design is intended to be worn with 2–4" of ease for a comfortable, modern fit.

Construction Techniques

Helenium employs several advanced knitting techniques that create both visual interest and structural integrity:

• Bottom-Up Construction: The sweater begins at the lower edge and progresses upward, allowing knitters to try on the garment during the process and adjust length as needed.
• Seamless, In-the-Round Knitting: The entire sweater is worked circularly using circular needles, eliminating the need for seaming and creating a continuous fabric with no side seams.
• Provisional Cast-On: The hem begins with a provisional cast-on, which allows the live stitches to be picked up later and finished with an attached i-cord for a polished, professional edge.
• Brioche Pattern: The primary stitch pattern is brioche, presented in chart form. When counting stitches in brioche pattern, each slipped stitch with its yarn over counts as a single stitch. When counting rows, each visible stitch represents two rows, which is important for accurate gauge and pattern reading.
• Striping: The design incorporates color work through striping, using a main color (MC) and contrasting color (CC) to create visual dimension.
• Attached I-Cord Finishing: After the sweater is complete, the live stitches at the cuff and hem are finished with an attached i-cord, creating a refined, decorative edge.

Stitch Techniques and Pattern Details

The brioche pattern is the signature element of Helenium. Brioche knitting is a specialized technique that creates a deeply textured, reversible fabric with excellent drape and elasticity. The pattern is presented in chart form only, requiring knitters to read visual charts rather than written row-by-row instructions. The set-up round establishes the brioche foundation with knit stitches and yarn-forward slipped stitches with yarn overs (yfsl1yo). Subsequent rounds alternate between brioche knit (brk) and brioche purl (brp) stitches combined with slipped stitches and yarn overs, creating the characteristic brioche texture.

Garment Structure

The sweater is constructed in three main sections: sleeves, body, and yoke. Sleeves are worked first in the round from a provisional cast-on, with 38–46 stitches depending on size, and are knit to the underarm before being placed on stitch holders. The body is worked separately in the round, beginning with a provisional cast-on of 156–256 stitches depending on size, and is knit to the underarm. The yoke is then worked after the sleeves are joined to the body, creating a seamless raglan-style construction. The brioche pattern is worked throughout the body and sleeves, with the yoke completing the sweater. All live stitches are finished with attached i-cord for a polished, refined appearance.

Yarn and Materials

Helenium is designed to be knit with Hikoo Kenzie, a luxury blend yarn containing 50% New Zealand Merino, 25% Nylon, 10% Angora, 10% Alpaca, and 5% Silk Noils. Each skein contains 160 yards (146 meters) and weighs 1 ¾ ounces (50 grams). The yardage requirements are 7–12 skeins in the main color (MC), shown here in colorway 1018 Seal, and 1 skein in the contrasting color (CC) in colorway 1005 Bayberry. This yarn composition provides warmth, elasticity from the nylon, and a luxurious feel from the angora, alpaca, and silk noils, making it ideal for the brioche pattern's textured appearance and drape.

Needles and Tools

Helenium requires Size 7 US (4.5 mm) circular needles in two lengths: a 24–48" (60–120 cm) long circular needle for