Twist Collective Tanit's Jacket Coat Knitting Pattern

Tanit's Jacket by Gudrun Johnston

What Is Being Made

Tanit's Jacket is a cropped knit jacket designed by Gudrun Johnston for Twist Collective. This garment features a dense and cozy stitch pattern and is intended to be worn with 1–3 inches (2.5–7.5 cm) of ease. The finished bust measurements range from 32 1/2 inches (82.5 cm) to 50 1/4 inches (127.5 cm), accommodating six different sizes. The jacket is shown in the size 38 3/4 inches (98.5 cm).

Construction Techniques

Tanit's Jacket employs a top-down construction method, worked in one piece beginning with a provisional cast-on. This approach allows knitters to try on the garment as it progresses and make adjustments to fit before completing the piece. The body and sleeves are worked in the round for the yoke section, creating seamless shaping at the raglan points. The sleeves are then worked flat and seamed at the end, providing a clean finish and allowing for easier customization of sleeve length.

The pattern includes short-row shaping techniques to create a well-fitted garment. When working these short rows, stitches must be slipped and wraps picked up as instructed to ensure the wraps remain hidden and the shaping appears seamless. The collar is worked by picking up stitches from the provisional cast-on row, creating a finished neckline.

An important note for knitters: when the pattern refers to stopping a certain number of stitches before the end of a right-side row, each stitch and its accompanying yarn over (counted as double stitches) should be counted as a single stitch. The pattern is designed with flexibility in mind—knitters can easily add length to the body or sleeves since there is no shaping in these sections, though additional yarn will be required for added length.

Stitches Used

The jacket features two primary stitch patterns:

• Tunisian Rib Stitch: Used for the raglan yoke, this stitch is worked over an odd number of stitches. Row 1 (wrong side) consists of knit 1, yarn over, slip 1 with yarn in back, knit 1, repeated across. Row 2 (right side) is worked as knit 1, knit 2 together through the back loop (combining the yarn over and slipped stitch from the previous row), knit 1, repeated across. This creates a textured, elastic ribbed fabric ideal for fitted yoke shaping.
• Cording Stitch: Used as a secondary stitch pattern, beginning with a purl row on the wrong side. This stitch adds visual interest and contributes to the dense, cozy texture of the finished jacket.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

Yarn: The pattern calls for 11 to 17 balls of Valley Yarns Northfield, depending on size. Each ball contains 124 yards (113 meters) and weighs 1 3/4 ounces (50 grams). The yarn is composed of 70% Merino wool, 20% Baby Alpaca, and 10% Silk, providing warmth, softness, and a luxurious drape. The sample jacket shown was knitted in colorway 10 Seaspray.

Needles: The pattern requires multiple circular needles in two sizes to accommodate different sections of the garment. Size 5 US (3.75 mm) circular needles are used for the main construction, including a 40-inch (100 cm) needle for the yoke and body, a 24-inch (60 cm) needle (optional), and a 16-inch (40 cm) needle for smaller circumferences. A Size 4 US (3.5 mm) circular needle measuring 32 inches (80 cm) is used for the cording stitch sections, creating a subtle gauge change that enhances stitch definition.