Universal Yarn Cotezuma Jumper Knitting Pattern

Cotezuma Sweater by Universal Yarn

What Is Being Made

The Cotezuma is a stranded knit sweater from Universal Yarn's Aztec Collection, designed as a bottom-up, seamless pullover. This garment features colorwork patterning inspired by Aztec design motifs, available in five sizes ranging from Small to 3X with finished bust measurements from 35¼" to 59". The sweater is constructed with a contemporary fit, shown modeled with 2¼" positive ease for comfortable wearing.

Construction Techniques

The Cotezuma employs several advanced knitting techniques that create a sophisticated finished garment:

• Bottom-Up Construction: The sweater is knit from the bottom edge upward, allowing for easy length adjustments and intuitive sizing as you work.
• Seamless, Worked in the Round: The body and sleeves are knit separately in the round using circular needles, then joined at the underarms. This seamless approach eliminates the need for seaming and creates a smooth, professional finish.
• Stranded Colorwork: The primary design technique features stranded knitting, where two colors are carried across the row to create the Aztec pattern. The pattern is worked from a chart over 84 to 140 stitches depending on size.
• Raglan Shaping: The sweater incorporates raglan shaping that continues through the upper body for a fitted silhouette.
• Button Placket: The piece is strategically separated at the center front partway through raglan shaping to accommodate a button placket opening, adding functional detail to the design.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The Cotezuma combines fundamental and specialty stitches to create texture and visual interest:

• Twisted Ribbing: Used as the primary ribbed edging, this stitch is worked both in rows and in the round. When worked in rows with an odd number of stitches, it alternates knit 1, purl 1 tbl across. In the round with an even number of stitches, it uses knit 1 tbl, purl 1 throughout. This ribbing provides elasticity and structure at cuffs and hem.
• Stranded Pattern: The main body features a 40-round repeat stranded colorwork chart that creates the Aztec-inspired design. This pattern is worked over the full width of the body and repeated until the piece reaches 17" in length before underarm separation.
• Stockinette Stitch: The foundation stitch beneath the colorwork pattern.

Materials and Yarn Specifications

The Cotezuma is designed to be worked in Universal Yarn Deluxe Worsted Tweed Superwash, a durable and practical yarn choice for everyday wear. This yarn contains 90% superwash wool, 7% acrylic, and 3% viscose, providing softness, washability, and subtle texture. Each 100-gram ball yields 218 yards of yardage.

The colorway requirements vary by size. The project uses three colors from the palette:

• 908 Navy (MC – Main Color): 4 to 6 balls depending on size
• 913 Smoke (CC1 – Contrast Color 1): 2 to 3 balls depending on size
• 906 Aegean (CC2 – Contrast Color 2): 2 to 4 balls depending on size

Needles and Tools

The Cotezuma requires two needle sizes to achieve proper gauge and structure:

• US Size 8 (5 mm) Circular Needles: Available in 24" and 36" lengths, plus a set of double-pointed needles (dpns). These larger needles are used for the main body and stranded colorwork sections.
• US Size 6 (4 mm) Circular Needles: Available in 24" length, plus a set of dpns. These smaller needles are used for the twisted ribbing edgings.

Additional notions include a tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch markers for tracking pattern repeats and shaping, stitch holders for managing stitches during construction, and two ⅞" buttons for the front placket closure.

Gauge and Sizing