Valley Yarns Kousa Knitting Pattern

Valley Yarns Kousa Cardigan: Knitted Luxury in Alpaca, Wool, and Silk

What Is Being Made

The Kousa is a long, luxurious cardigan designed by Julie Turjoman and published by Valley Yarns. This intermediate-level knitting project creates a sophisticated button-front cardigan featuring a raised collar and overlapping front bands. The design is available in sizes ranging from XS to 4XL, with finished bust measurements from 35½ inches to 65 inches. The cardigan is intended as a special occasion piece, suitable as a holiday gift, and designed to be treasured as a classic wardrobe staple.

Yarn and Materials

The Kousa is crafted using Valley Yarns Hardwick, a premium blend of 50% baby alpaca, 35% wool, and 15% silk. This luxurious fiber combination creates a soft, dimensional fabric with natural tonal color variation. The yarn is worked at a gauge of 18 stitches and 26 rows over 4 inches on US size 7 (4.5 mm) needles in stockinette stitch, blocked. Yarn requirements range from 7 hanks for the smallest size (XS) to 15 hanks for the largest size (4XL), with each hank containing 100 yards and weighing 100 grams.

Construction requires US size 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles in both 16-inch and 32–40-inch lengths, plus double-pointed needles in the same size. A US size 6 (4.0 mm) 16-inch circular needle is needed for the collar ribbing. Additional materials include stitch markers (including locking stitch markers), stitch holders or waste yarn for holding stitches, and a tapestry needle for seaming and finishing.

Techniques and Construction Methods

The Kousa employs several intermediate-level knitting techniques that add sophistication to the finished garment. The cardigan is worked flat in separate pieces, with the back and front sections knitted back and forth in rows before being seamed together for structure. This construction method provides clean finishing and allows for precise shaping.

Short-row shaping is incorporated into the shoulders to enhance the fit and create a more tailored silhouette. The front bands are knitted on using garter stitch, creating a neat, finished edge that overlaps at the front opening. The overlapping bands add both visual interest and functional closure to the cardigan.

The long sleeves feature a drop-shoulder construction and are worked in the round from stitches picked up at the armhole. Each sleeve includes a single Dragon Skin motif running down the center, with garter stitch cuffs at the wrists. The neckband is worked in ribbing with a stockinette stitch lining, picked up from stitches around the neckline and front bands. The lining is seamed to the wrong side at the base of the neckband to add structure and prevent the neckband from rolling.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The primary stitch pattern used throughout the Kousa is the Dragon Skin stitch texture, which creates the subtle but sophisticated textural details characteristic of this design. This textured stitch is worked across the back and front pieces, adding visual and tactile interest while maintaining an intermediate skill level.

• Stockinette stitch is used for the gauge measurement and forms the foundation of the neckband lining, providing a smooth, classic fabric base.
• Garter stitch is used for the knitted-on front bands and the sleeve cuffs, creating a reversible, textured edge that frames the cardigan opening.
• Ribbing is used for the neckband, providing elasticity and a finished, professional appearance at the neckline.

Design Details and Fit

The Kousa features several design elements that elevate its sophistication. The raised collar and overlapping front bands create a classic, refined aesthetic. The tonal color of Valley Yarns Hardwick, combined with the thick-and-thin texture of the yarn and the Dragon Skin stitch pattern, adds dimensionality and visual interest without requiring color changes or complex colorwork.

The cardigan is designed to fit with 4 to 6 inches of positive ease, allowing for comfortable layering and movement. The drop-shoulder construction and short-row shaping at the shoulders create a garment that drapes elegantly while maintaining proper fit across the bust and shoulders.

Skill Level and Suit