Valley Yarns #179 Fleur de Lis(a)

Valley Yarns Fleur de Lis(a) Weaving Pattern

What Is Being Made

The Fleur de Lis(a) is a decorative scarf designed by Elisabeth Hill, measuring 8¾ inches wide by 82¼ inches long when finished. This weaving project combines two distinct yarns to create a sophisticated textile featuring fleur de lis patterning accented with tonal color variation. The finished scarf includes 8 inches of unwoven fringe on each end, making it an elegant accessory suitable for various styling occasions.

Weaving Structure and Techniques

This pattern uses a deflected doubleweave variation, a complex weaving structure that creates dimensional texture and pattern definition. The technique involves strategic yarn placement to produce the characteristic fleur de lis motif while maintaining the fabric's integrity. Deflected doubleweave allows for the interplay between two different yarns—the tonal Tencel and the solid Hatfield—creating visual interest through both color and texture manipulation.

The weaving process incorporates striped patterning throughout the draft, with distinct color blocks that alternate between the Sunset and Cranberry yarns. Hemstitching is used in groups of 4 warp ends to reinforce structure between woven sections. The pattern suggests optional floating selvedges for refined edge management, demonstrating attention to finishing details.

Equipment and Loom Setup

This project requires an 8-shaft loom with a 12-dent reed, allowing for the complex threading necessary to achieve the deflected doubleweave variation. Two shuttles and two bobbins are needed to manage the alternating weft yarns. The warp is set at 24 ends per inch (epi) using a 2-per-dent threading in the 12-dent reed, creating a finished weaving width of 10 inches in the reed. The total warp length is 4 yards of 240 threads, providing sufficient length for the finished scarf plus fringe and loom waste.

Yarn Materials and Specifications

The pattern features two premium Valley Yarns products:

• Valley Yarns 8/2 Tencel Tonals in Sunset: A 100% Lyocell yarn with 3360 yards per pound. This yarn is used for 720 yards in the warp and 473 yards in the weft, providing the tonal color variation that Elisabeth Hill selected as a feature element. Tencel Tonals offer the "free" patterning quality that distinguishes this design.
• Valley Yarns Hatfield in #C843 Cranberry: A 100% Baby Alpaca yarn with 437 yards per 50-gram skein. This super soft yarn is used for 240 yards in the warp and 157 yards in the weft, creating the fleur de lis texture against the tonal background. The alpaca fiber provides luxurious softness and subtle sheen.

The combination of Lyocell and Baby Alpaca creates a scarf with varied tactile qualities—the smooth drape of Tencel balanced with the warmth and softness of alpaca fiber.

Warp and Weft Configuration

The warp color order is carefully planned with 180 ends of Tencel Sunset and 60 ends of Hatfield Cranberry distributed across 8 shafts according to the provided threading draft. Shaft heddle counts are as follows: Shaft 1 (48 heddles), Shaft 2 (48 heddles), Shaft 3 (16 heddles), Shaft 4 (16 heddles), Shaft 5 (42 heddles), Shaft 6 (12 heddles), Shaft 7 (42 heddles), and Shaft 8 (14 heddles), totaling 240 heddles for the full warp.

Weaving begins with 1 inch of plain weave using scrap yarn for spreading, followed by 8 inches of unwoven fringe. The pattern then commences with 2 picks of plain weave in Sunset before transitioning to the deflected doubleweave draft. Two bobbins—one wound with Tencel Sunset and one with Hatfield Cranberry—are used to manage the weft throughout the weaving process.

Design Inspiration and Variations

Elisabeth Hill's design concept emphasizes the visual potential of combining patterned and solid yarns. The designer notes possibilities for future variations, including weaving the fleur de lis motif in complementary colors or reversing the yarn roles—using a tonal yarn for the fleur de lis pattern against a solid Hatfield background. These suggestions highlight the versatility of the