Valley Yarns #181 Flaxen Shawl

Valley Yarns Flaxen Shawl

What is Being Made

The Flaxen Shawl is an ample, silky wrap designed for cool evenings. This woven shawl measures 20¾ inches wide by 96 inches long in its finished dimensions, providing generous coverage as a versatile wrap. The design was created by Elisabeth Hill and uses advanced weaving techniques to combine beautiful striping with textured overlay effects.

Weave Structure and Techniques

This shawl is constructed using deflected doubleweave, a sophisticated weaving structure that creates dimensional texture and visual interest. The deflected doubleweave technique allows the weaver to create a textured overlay while showcasing the striping characteristics of the primary yarn. This structure requires careful planning and execution on a multi-shaft loom, making it suitable for intermediate to advanced weavers.

The weaving incorporates lace and stripe techniques to achieve its distinctive aesthetic. The striping comes from the strategic color placement of two different yarn types in both the warp and weft, while the lace element is created through the deflected doubleweave structure itself.

Equipment and Loom Requirements

Weaving the Flaxen Shawl requires an 8-shaft loom that is at least 26 inches wide. Additional equipment includes a 12-dent reed, 2 shuttles, and 2 bobbins. The loom setup uses a warp length of 4 yards with 470 ends across the width.

Yarns and Materials

Warp Yarns:

• Valley Yarns 8/2 Tencel Tonals in Flaxen (100% Lyocell, 3360 yards per pound) — 1416 yards required
• Valley Yarns Charlemont in Honey Gold (60% Fine Superwash Merino Wool, 20% Silk, 20% Polyamide; 437 yards per 100g) — 464 yards required

Weft Yarns:

• Valley Yarns 8/2 Tencel Tonals in Flaxen — 1172 yards required
• Valley Yarns Charlemont in Honey Gold — 390 yards required

Sett and Weaving Specifications

The shawl uses two different setts to accommodate the different yarn weights. The Tencel is set at 24 ends per inch (epi), threaded 2 per dent in the 12-dent reed, while the Charlemont is set at 12 epi, threaded 1 per dent in the 12-dent reed. The weft is woven at 20 picks per inch (ppi). The width in the reed measures 24.4 inches.

Threading and Loom Dressing

The warp is wound in a specific color order centered for the 24.4-inch weaving width. The threading follows a detailed draft that distributes 470 total warp ends across 8 shafts with varying heddle counts per shaft, ranging from 26 to 90 heddles depending on the shaft. The warp color order alternates between sections of Charlemont and Tencel Tonal yarns to create the striped effect that becomes visible through the deflected doubleweave structure.

Dressing the loom involves threading according to the provided draft and using the weaver's preferred method for warping. A 1-inch header of plain weave using scrap yarn helps establish proper tension before beginning the actual shawl weaving.

Finished Characteristics

The combination of Tencel Tonals — a smooth, lustrous lyocell fiber — with the Charlemont blend of merino wool, silk, and polyamide creates a fabric with both visual and tactile appeal. The Tencel provides sheen and drape, while the Charlemont adds warmth, softness, and subtle sheen from the silk component. The deflected doubleweave structure ensures the shawl has sufficient body and texture while remaining elegant enough for evening wear.