Valley Yarns #239 "Night on the Town" Purse

Valley Yarns "Night on the Town" Purse

What Is Being Made

The Valley Yarns "Night on the Town" Purse is a hand-woven envelope-style bag inspired by antique North African designs. This compact purse measures 7 ⅝" x 7 ⅝" when finished and is designed to hold small essentials such as a phone, keys, and other personal items. The purse is created by weaving a flat textile panel that is then folded at the corners and seamed together to form the finished bag structure.

Weaving Technique and Structure

This project uses Independent Block Overshot as its weave structure, a sophisticated technique that creates pattern variations through the interplay of warp and weft threads. The overshot draft produces interesting visual transformations when the woven fabric is folded into the purse shape, adding depth and visual interest to the final design. The weaving is executed on an 8-shaft loom that is at least 16" wide, allowing for the complex threading required by the overshot structure.

Sett and Density Specifications

The purse is woven at a sett of 22 ½ ends per inch (epi), achieved by threading 1-2 threads in a 15-dent reed. The overall picks per inch (ppi) total 45, consisting of 22 ½ pattern picks and 22 ½ tabby picks. The warp width in the reed measures 12 ⅔", with a total warp length of 1 ⅔ yards comprising 285 ends, including 2 floating selvedges and sampling room.

Yarns and Materials

The warp is constructed using Valley Yarns 10/2 Cotton in color #8990 Black, a 100% Mercerized Cotton available at 4200 yards per pound. The weft combines two distinct yarns to create the striped pattern effect:

• Valley Yarns 10/2 Cotton in #8990 Black (100% Mercerized Cotton, 4200 yds/lb) for the ground weave, requiring 113 yards
• Valley Yarns 5/2 Bamboo in Orchid (100% Rayon from Bamboo, 2100 yds/lb) for the pattern weft, requiring 104 yards

The pattern weft showcases the bamboo yarn's lustrous quality and creates color contrast against the black cotton ground. The design notes that 5/2 cotton can be substituted for the bamboo yarn, and weavers are encouraged to choose any contrasting color to coordinate with their personal wardrobe.

Construction and Finishing

After weaving, the purse is constructed through seaming techniques combined with strategic folding. The project incorporates several finishing materials to add structure and functionality:

• ½ yard of Pellon 987F fusible fleece for body and structure
• ½ yard of Pellon SF101 fusible interfacing in black for reinforcement
• 13" x 13" black cotton fabric for the lining
• Black sewing thread and standard sewing supplies
• Dritz Frog Closure for the bag closure
• Approximately 1 ½ yards of black twisted cord for decorative and functional edging
• 4" of ¼" Dritz Stitch Witchery for hem bonding

Equipment Requirements

Weavers will need an 8-shaft loom with a minimum width of 16", along with 2 bobbins and 2 shuttles for managing the multiple weft yarns. A temple is recommended to maintain consistent width during weaving. Standard sewing equipment is required for the finishing and seaming stages of purse construction.

Design Inspiration

The "Night on the Town" Purse design, created by Anita Thompson, draws inspiration from antique envelope bags discovered in North African museum collections. The overshot weave pattern creates dynamic visual effects that are further enhanced by the geometric transformation that occurs when the woven panel is folded and seamed into its final purse form, making it both a functional accessory and a showcase for hand-weaving artistry.