Valley Yarns #240 Tula Shawl

Valley Yarns Tula Shawl: Woven Striped Scarf

What Is Being Made

The Valley Yarns Tula Shawl is a woven scarf designed by Shilpa Nagarkar that explores the concept of balance and contrast. The finished piece measures 17.5" x 72" (excluding fringe) and features a striking interplay of natural and dark tones, inspired by the philosophical idea that all of God's creations contain both good and bad in imperfect harmony. The design uses white and black as its primary color statement, representing this duality.

Weaving Technique and Structure

This project is created using a rigid heddle loom with plain weave as the foundational structure. The defining technique is three-color clasped weft, an advanced variation of the clasped weft method. Clasped weft weaving involves interlocking separate weft colors at the edges between color blocks, creating clean color transitions without the need for bobbins or complex threading. The three-color variation elevates this technique beyond basic two-color clasped weft, allowing for more complex color combinations within a single row. The pattern recommends familiarity with this technique and references instructional video resources for guidance.

Equipment and Loom Specifications

• Rigid heddle loom with minimum 20" weaving width
• 10-dent reed
• One 9" stick shuttle for weft insertion
• Warp length: 98" with 200 ends
• Sett: 10 epi (ends per inch), 8 ppi (picks per inch) of the doubled weft yarn
• Width in reed: 20"

Warp Yarns and Materials

The warp is woven using Valley Yarns Ashfield, a blend of 67% fine merino wool and 33% bamboo viscose. This yarn provides both warmth and a subtle drape characteristic of bamboo viscose blends. The warp requires:

• #01 Natural: 272 yards (3 hanks)
• #08 Black: 272 yards (3 hanks)

The warp is dressed at 10 epi and centered on the loom to achieve the 20" weaving width, with the color order creating the foundational striped pattern.

Weft Yarns and Color Palette

The weft is woven using Valley Yarns Huntington, a superwash merino and nylon blend (75% superwash merino wool, 25% nylon) that offers durability and easy care. The weft is doubled during weaving, creating the 8 ppi density. The color palette for the weft includes:

• #0010 Natural: 2 hanks
• #0050 Black: 2 hanks
• #4150 Red: 1 hank
• #0026 Harvest Orange: 1 hank
• #0037 Lemongrass: 1 hank

These five colors are interlocked using the three-color clasped weft technique to create complex striped patterns and color transitions throughout the scarf.

Weaving Process and Finishing

After warping and dressing the loom with 200 threads centered for a 20" weaving width, the weaver spreads the warp with scrap yarn and adds spacers to ensure adequate fringe length (minimum 4"). Weft tails are left on either end at approximately twice the width of the scarf. The weaving begins with plain weave in two-color clasped weft using natural and black, establishing the foundational color blocks before progressing through the more complex three-color sections. The finished scarf excludes the fringe in its stated dimensions but includes substantial fringe for a refined edge.

Skill Level and Pattern Notes

This is an intermediate to advanced weaving project that requires prior experience with clasped weft techniques. The three-color variation represents a step beyond basic clasped weft, making this design suitable for weavers looking to expand their technical skills. The pattern is distributed by Valley Yarns through WEBS and is intended for personal use only. Weavers are encouraged to reference instructional video content to ensure proper execution of the three-color clasped weft technique before beginning the project.