Valley Yarns #295 Nebula Scarf

Valley Yarns Nebula Scarf: Overshot Weaving Pattern

What Is Being Made

The Valley Yarns Nebula Scarf is a handwoven scarf designed by Tegan Frisino, inspired by the Southern Ring Nebula as photographed by the Webb Telescope in 2022. This finished scarf measures 8 inches wide by 71.5 inches long, with 6-inch fringe on either end, creating an elegant accessory that showcases the luminous qualities of fine silk yarns through geometric patterning.

Weaving Technique and Structure

Overshot weaving is the primary technique used for this project. Overshot is a supplementary weft weaving structure that allows the weaver to create irregular curves and complex patterns while maintaining a geometric grid foundation. This technique was specifically chosen to emphasize the irregular curves inspired by the nebula photograph while honoring the structured, geometric nature of loom weaving. The overshot structure creates visual depth and texture by floating supplementary weft threads over the base cloth, producing the shimmering, dimensional quality that evokes a galaxy.

Pattern and Design Elements

The scarf features striped patterns created through the interplay of two distinct silk colors in the weft. The design uses a combination of Sepia and Burgundy silk threads to build the nebula-inspired imagery within the overshot structure. The weaving draft (#295) provides specific threading and pattern instructions for creating these irregular curves on a geometric grid, allowing weavers to interpret the cosmic inspiration through their loom.

Equipment Requirements

• 4-shaft loom, minimum 12 inches wide
• 2 shuttles for managing multiple weft colors
• 2 bobbins for weft yarn
• Fringe twister for finishing
• 18-dent reed for proper sett

Yarn Specifications

This pattern calls for Valley Yarns silk yarns in two weights, both made from 100% spun mulberry silk:

• Warp Yarn: Valley Yarns 60/2 Silk in #655 Sepia (14,800 yards per pound, sold on 8.8 oz cones). Total warp requirement: 1,532 yards
• Weft Yarn: Valley Yarns 60/2 Silk in #655 Sepia (1,532 yards per pound) at 848 yards, combined with Valley Yarns 20/2 Silk in #666 Burgundy (4,900 yards per pound) at 840 yards

The use of mulberry silk throughout provides the characteristic shimmer and luster that creates the galaxy-like appearance central to the scarf's design. The silk's natural sheen enhances the visual effect of the overshot pattern, making the irregular curves appear to glow.

Loom Setup and Specifications

The scarf requires a warp of 4 yards in length with 383 total ends, including doubled floating selvedges (2 threads on each side for reinforced edges). The sett is 42 ends per inch, achieved using a 2-2-3 threading pattern in an 18-dent reed. The weaving width in the reed is set at 9 inches to account for take-up and finishing shrinkage, resulting in the final 8-inch width.

The picks per inch (ppi) is set at 80, divided equally between 40 picks of pattern weft and 40 picks of tabby (plain weave base). This balanced structure ensures stability while allowing the overshot pattern to display clearly.

Weaving Process Considerations

Because Valley Yarns 60/2 and 20/2 silk yarns are notably slippery, special attention is required when tying the warp onto the loom. The pattern instructions recommend using a double hitch knot when securing the silk to the back warp rod to prevent slippage during the weaving process. After tying onto the front apron rod, the warp should be spread with a few picks of scrap yarn to ensure even tension distribution across all threads.

Weavers should plan for at least 6 inches of unwoven warp at the beginning of the piece to accommodate fringe. The pattern uses two shuttles to manage the Sepia and Burgundy weft colors, allowing for the color transitions that create the striped, nebula-inspired visual effect.

Finished Dimensions and Fringe

The completed scarf measures 8 inches in width and