Valley Yarns 40th Anniversary Long Collared Vest Knitting Pattern

Valley Yarns 40th Anniversary Long Collared Vest

Project Overview

The Valley Yarns 40th Anniversary Long Collared Vest is a sophisticated waistcoat designed by Sally Melville as part of the Guest Designer Series #17. This intermediate-level knitting project creates a tailored, long-length vest with a collared neckline and button front closure. The finished garment offers a classic silhouette with refined styling suitable for layering over shirts and sweaters.

What Is Being Made

This pattern produces a long collared vest available in five sizes with finished bust measurements of 38, 42, 47, 51, and 55 inches. The vest extends to a length of 36.5 to 38.5 inches at the side seam, making it long enough to sit on comfortably without riding up. The garment features a button front with six 0.75-inch buttons and includes a structured collar. The overlapped front closure and tailored construction create a polished, wearable piece.

Techniques and Construction Method

This vest is worked flat on straight needles, meaning pieces are knitted in rows back and forth rather than in the round. This construction method allows for easier shaping and finishing of the front bands and collar. The designer notes that working flat with this particular stitch pattern requires careful attention to tension and shaping, particularly through the armholes and neckline where decreases occur.

The pattern employs steam pressing as a finishing technique to set the gauge and enhance the fabric's appearance. This blocking method is essential for achieving the specified finished measurements and ensuring the stitch pattern displays its full texture and stability.

Stitches and Stitch Pattern

The primary stitch pattern used in this vest is adapted from Barbara Walker's Small Quilted Cross Stitch. This textured stitch creates a wonderful visual and tactile quality while providing fabric stability—a crucial feature for a long garment that will bear its own weight. The stitch pattern features crossing elements that add complexity and visual interest to the fabric.

The pattern also incorporates stockinette stitch for the finishing bands around the armholes, front edges, and collar. These bands are worked on smaller needles to create a more refined, fitted edge that frames the textured body of the vest.

Construction details include selvage stitches for neat edges and strategic decreases for shaping the armholes and neckline. The designer recommends using either a cable cast on or knitted cast on for the foundation, specifically cautioning against the long-tail cast on method. This choice ensures the cast-on edge has appropriate elasticity and appearance for this garment style.

Materials: Yarn, Needles, and Notions

Yarn: The vest is knitted using Valley Yarns Berkshire Bulky, a premium blend of 85% wool and 15% alpaca. This fiber composition provides warmth, elasticity, and a luxurious feel. The yarn is worked in color 16 Burgundy, a rich, versatile shade. Yardage requirements range from 8 balls for the smallest size (approximately 864 yards) to 12 balls for the largest size (approximately 1,296 yards). Each ball weighs 100 grams and contains 108 yards.

Needles: The pattern requires two needle sizes to accommodate different gauges. US size 13 (9.00mm) needles are used for the main vest body worked in the stitch pattern. US size 10 (6.00mm) needles are used for the finishing bands in stockinette stitch. The designer notes that the larger needles are intentionally oversized for this bulky yarn because the crossing stitch pattern would become too dense if worked on appropriately-sized needles. Even with the larger needles, the designer worked the stitch pattern very loosely to achieve the desired fabric hand. A US size 9 (5.50mm) crochet hook is also required for finishing details.

Notions and Accessories: The pattern requires six 0.75-inch buttons for the front closure, two stitch markers for tracking pattern repeats, and one stitch holder for securing stitches during construction.

Gauge and Sizing

Achieving proper gauge is critical for this project. The stitch pattern gauge is 14 stitches and 14 rows over 4 inches when worked on US size 13 needles and measured after steam pressing. The stockinette gauge for the bands is 14.5 stitches and 19 rows over 4 inches on US size 10 needles, also after steam pressing. The designer emphasizes the importance of swatching