Valley Yarns Cortland Knitting Pattern

Valley Yarns Cortland Knit Hat

What Is Being Made

The Cortland is a sophisticated knit hat designed by Susan Baron that combines style and comfort through a layered construction. This advanced beginner knitting project features a sumptuous under-layer paired with an elegant lace overlay, creating an impressive finished garment that is surprisingly accessible to knitters with some experience. The hat is worked seamlessly in the round and comes in two finished circumference options: 19¼ inches and 21½ inches.

Techniques Used

This hat employs several key knitting techniques that contribute to both its visual appeal and structural integrity:

• Seamless construction: The entire hat is worked in the round using circular needles and double-pointed needles, eliminating the need for seaming and creating a smooth, professional finish
• Bottom-up construction: The hat begins at the ribbed brim and progresses upward toward the crown, allowing knitters to try on the garment as it develops
• Lace patterning: A delicate lace overlay is incorporated using decreases and yarn overs to create an openwork design that adds visual sophistication and elegance
• Two-color knitting: The pattern utilizes both a main color and contrasting color yarn in separate layers, with the lace worked in the contrasting color over the stockinette base
• Decreasing for shaping: Strategic decreases at the crown (including ssk and k2tog stitches) shape the hat to a fitted finish

Stitches Used

The Cortland pattern employs fundamental knitting stitches combined in specific ways to achieve its distinctive look:

• Ribbing: A 1x1 knit-purl ribbing creates the stretchy, fitted brim that helps the hat stay securely in place
• Stockinette stitch: Smooth knit stitches form the under-layer base, providing a clean foundation for the lace overlay
• Lace stitches: Yarn overs combined with decreases (ssk and k2tog) create the openwork lace pattern that distinguishes the hat's upper portion
• Make 1 purl (M1p): This increase stitch is used to expand the stitch count after the ribbing, transitioning from the fitted brim to the fuller body of the hat
• Crown decreases: Multiple decrease rounds progressively reduce stitches to close the top of the hat

Materials and Gauge

The Cortland pattern specifies premium luxury yarns that contribute significantly to the hat's comfort and appearance. The main color layer uses Valley Yarns Deerfield, a sumptuous blend of 80% baby alpaca and 20% silk, providing exceptional softness and warmth. The contrasting lace overlay is knit with Valley Yarns Southampton, a sophisticated blend of 72% kid mohair and 28% mulberry silk that adds a lustrous, elegant quality to the finished hat.

The pattern requires two different needle sizes to achieve proper gauge and fabric characteristics. The ribbed brim and stockinette base are worked on US size 6 (4mm) circular and double-pointed needles, while the lace pattern section is worked on US size 4 (3.5mm) circular and double-pointed needles. Both needle sizes are 16 inches in length, suitable for working in the round on a hat-sized circumference.

The specified gauge is 22 stitches and 28 rounds over 4 inches in stockinette stitch using the larger needles, and 22 stitches and 28 rounds over 4 inches in lace pattern using the smaller needles. Achieving proper gauge is essential for obtaining the correct finished measurements and ensuring the hat fits appropriately.

Additional materials needed include stitch markers to indicate the beginning of each round and pattern repeats, and a tapestry needle for weaving in yarn ends. The pattern uses a stretchy cast-on method to create an elastic edge that accommodates the ribbing's stretch.

Yarn Quantities

For either finished size, knitters will need 2 balls of Valley Yarns Deerfield (50 grams per ball, 109 yards per ball) in Navy for the main color, and 1 ball of Valley Yarns Southampton (25 grams per ball, 230 yards per ball) in Merlot