Martha Jacket Knitting Pattern

Martha Jacket Knitting Pattern by Jenny Watson

Project Overview

The Martha Jacket is an intermediate-level knitting pattern designed by Jenny Watson and available as a downloadable PDF. This tailored jacket project is crafted using the Noro Silk Garden Lite yarn, offering a sophisticated garment suitable for knitters with some experience in shaping and construction techniques.

What Is Being Made

The Martha Jacket is a fitted, structured jacket designed to flatter multiple bust sizes. The pattern includes five size options to fit bust measurements ranging from 71-76cm (28-30 inches) up to 112-117cm (44-46 inches). The finished garment features an actual measurement range from 81cm to 122cm across the bust, with a full length of approximately 46-56cm (18-22 inches). Sleeves are designed with lengths ranging from 43-48cm (17-19 inches), providing versatility for different wearing preferences and proportions.

Knitting Techniques Used

The Martha Jacket employs several essential intermediate knitting techniques. Armhole shaping is achieved through strategic cast-off rows at the beginning of rows, followed by decreasing stitches to create a fitted sleeve cap. Neck shaping is integrated with the armhole shaping, requiring careful attention to stitch placement and row-by-row decreases. The pattern uses slip stitch, knit, pass slipped stitch over (s1, K1, psso) decreases on knit rows and purl two together (P2tog) decreases on purl rows to create tapered edges. The jacket is constructed using stocking stitch as the primary fabric, which creates a smooth, classic appearance suitable for a professional garment.

Stitches and Abbreviations

The Martha Jacket pattern utilizes fundamental knitting stitches with the following abbreviations:

• K = Knit stitch
• P = Purl stitch
• K2tog = Knit two stitches together (right-leaning decrease)
• s1, K1, psso = Slip one stitch, knit one, pass slipped stitch over (left-leaning decrease)
• P2tog = Purl two stitches together
• m1 = Make one stitch by picking up the loop between the last and next stitch and knitting into the back of this loop (increase)
• st-st = Stocking stitch (alternating knit and purl rows)

Additional abbreviations include alt (alternate), beg (beginning), cont (continue), dec (decrease), foll (following), inc (increase), rem (remaining), and rep (repeat). These stitches combine to create the structured shaping necessary for a fitted jacket silhouette.

Materials and Yarn

The Martha Jacket pattern calls for Noro Silk Garden Lite yarn in quantities ranging from 400g for the smallest size to 600g for the largest size. This yarn choice provides a luxurious fiber blend suitable for a refined garment. The pattern requires two pairs of knitting needles: 4mm (US6) needles for the main fabric and 3.25mm (US3) needles for ribbed sections or edge finishing. Additionally, four buttons are required for the jacket closure, adding a functional and decorative element to the finished garment.

Tension and Gauge

Achieving the correct tension is critical for the Martha Jacket to fit properly. The pattern specifies a gauge of 21 stitches and 28 rows to 10cm (4 inches) when working over stocking stitch using 4mm (US6) knitting needles. Knitters should take time to knit and measure a gauge swatch before beginning the project to ensure their finished jacket matches the intended measurements and drape of the design.

Construction Details

The jacket construction begins with ribbed cuffs worked on 3.25mm (US3) needles, which are then changed to 4mm (US6) needles for the main body fabric. The pattern incorporates strategic decreasing to shape the armholes and neckline simultaneously, creating a professional fit. Decreases are worked symmetrically on both sides of the garment pieces, with the frequency of decrease rows adjusted based on the size being knitted. The pattern includes specific instructions for different size variations, indicated by bracketed numbers that correspond to each of the five available sizes.