Rowan Gentoo Jumper Knitting Pattern

Rowan Gentoo Knitted Sweater by Erika Knight

What is Being Made

The Rowan Gentoo is a knitted sweater designed to fit bust measurements ranging from 71-76 cm (28-30 inches) up to 152-157 cm (60-62 inches), with corresponding actual garment bust measurements from 101 cm to 182.5 cm. This is a versatile pullover sweater available in nine size options, making it suitable for a wide range of body types and fit preferences.

Techniques Used

This sweater is constructed using bottom-up knitting methodology, meaning the garment is worked from the lower edge upward. The pieces are worked flat on straight needles rather than in the round, and the finished sections are seamed together to create the final garment. The pattern incorporates short-row shaping, a technique that involves wrapping stitches and turning the work before completing a full row. This advanced shaping method allows for precise contouring of the back neck and shoulder areas without the need for traditional decreasing methods.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The Gentoo features a distinctive tuck pattern as its primary stitch design. According to the pattern notes, the tuck pattern is formed by working one stitch together with its paired stitch from six rows below, as indicated by directional arrows within the pattern instructions. This creates a textured, dimensional fabric surface that adds visual interest and depth to the finished sweater. The pattern requires careful attention to stitch placement and row counting to execute the tuck technique correctly.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

The Gentoo is designed to be knitted using Pebble Island yarn from Rowan, supplied in 50-gram hanks. The pattern shown is photographed in the colorway Marble 020. Yarn quantities range from 11 hanks for the smallest size to 23 hanks for the largest size, allowing crafters to select the appropriate yardage for their chosen size.

Two needle sizes are required for this project. The pattern calls for 4mm (US 6) needles and 4½mm (US 7) needles, with specific applications for each. The 4mm needles are used for ribbing and initial sections, while the 4½mm needles are used for the main pattern work. Additionally, a 4mm (US 6) circular needle no more than 50 cm long is needed for the neckband finishing.

Tension and Gauge

The pattern specifies a tension of 22 stitches and 32 rows to 10 centimeters, measured over the tuck pattern using the 4½mm (US 7) needles. Achieving the correct gauge is essential for obtaining the proper finished measurements and fit of the sweater.

Construction Details

The back piece shaping demonstrates the complexity of this design. The pattern includes specific instructions for shaping the back neck through strategic short-row wrapping and turning, with decreases worked at the neck edge using techniques such as P2tog (purl two together) and K2tog (knit two together). The left and right back shoulders are worked separately after the initial shaping, allowing for customized contouring. Stitches are held on holders during construction, with the center back neck stitches reserved for the neckband, which is worked after the main body pieces are completed and seamed.