Rowan Black Multicolor Zig Zag Jacket Knitting Pattern

Rowan Black Multicolor Zig Zag Jacket by Kaffe Fassett

What is Being Made

The Rowan Black Multicolor Zig Zag Jacket is a knitted cardigan designed by renowned colorwork artist Kaffe Fassett. This garment is available in five sizes to fit bust measurements ranging from 81–86 cm up to 122–127 cm, with corresponding finished bust measurements from 151 cm to 189.5 cm. The jacket features a sophisticated zig zag pattern worked throughout, creating a striking visual design that showcases the interplay of multiple yarn colors against a black base.

Techniques Used

This jacket is constructed using seamed knitting, meaning individual pieces are knitted separately and then sewn together to form the finished garment. The pattern is worked flat on straight needles rather than in the round, allowing knitters to work back and forth across rows. The most prominent technique featured in this design is stranded colorwork, also known as fair isle knitting. In stranded colorwork, multiple yarn colors are carried across the back of the work as stitches are formed, creating intricate patterned designs on the fabric surface. This technique requires careful tension management to ensure the carried yarns do not pucker the fabric or create overly tight stitches.

Stitches Used

The jacket is primarily constructed in stockinette stitch (abbreviated as st st in knitting patterns), which is formed by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side. This creates the smooth, classic knit fabric that serves as the canvas for the zig zag colorwork pattern. The pattern itself is based on a 10-stitch repeat that is repeated across each row, allowing the zig zag motif to flow continuously across the width of the garment pieces. Shaping is achieved through strategic increases and decreases worked at marked edges, particularly at the shoulders and neckline, which are integrated seamlessly into the patterned sections.

Materials: Yarn and Needles

This project uses Rowan Felted Tweed yarn, a premium worsted-weight yarn available in nine carefully selected colors that work together to create the multicolor zig zag effect. The color palette includes:

• Black (shade 211) – the dominant base color, requiring 6–8 balls of 50gm depending on size
• Avocado (shade 161) – 1 ball across all sizes
• Vas Green (shade 204) – 1 ball across all sizes
• Duck Egg (shade 173) – 1 ball across all sizes
• Ciel (shade 215) – 1–2 balls depending on size
• Astor (shade 217) – 1 ball across all sizes
• Candy Floss (shade 221) – 1 ball across all sizes
• Heliotrope (shade 219) – 1 ball across all sizes
• Scarlet (shade 222) – 1 ball across all sizes

The pattern is worked on 3¾mm (US 5) needles, which are appropriately sized for the Felted Tweed yarn weight. The use of this specific needle size ensures proper gauge and fabric drape, which is essential for achieving the intended fit and appearance of the finished jacket.

Pattern Structure and Design Details

The jacket is constructed in three main pieces: a left back, right back, and fronts, which are later seamed together. The zig zag pattern is charted and repeated throughout, with the pattern repeat aligning across the body for visual continuity. Shaping occurs at the armholes and neckline through decreases and increases worked while maintaining pattern accuracy. The pattern instructions reference specific chart rows, indicating that a separate chart document accompanies this pattern to guide colorwork placement. The skill level designation suggests this is an intermediate to advanced project, appropriate for knitters with experience in stranded colorwork and garment construction.