Rowan Kukiko Jumper Knitting Pattern

Rowan Kukiko Sweater by Brandon Mably

What is Being Made

Kukiko is a knitted sweater designed by Brandon Mably for Rowan. This garment is a fitted pullover sweater available in five sizes to fit bust measurements ranging from 81-86 cm (32-34 inches) up to 122-127 cm (48-50 inches), with actual finished bust measurements from 124 cm to 164 cm (49 to 64½ inches). The sweater features a classic crew neckline with shaped shoulders and a structured silhouette.

Techniques Used

Kukiko is constructed using several key knitting techniques that create visual interest and structural integrity:

• Bottom-up construction: The sweater is knitted from the bottom edge upward, allowing for easy try-on and adjustment during the knitting process.
• Worked flat: The pattern is worked on flat needles rather than in the round, with pieces seamed together at the end.
• Intarsia: This technique is used to incorporate colored pattern work into the fabric. Intarsia allows for large blocks of contrasting color to be knitted into the design without carrying yarn across the back, creating a clean interior finish.
• Seamed construction: Individual pieces (front, back, and sleeves) are knitted separately and then seamed together using mattress stitch or similar techniques for a professional finish.
• Shaping: The pattern includes detailed shaping instructions for the armholes, shoulders, and neckline to create a well-fitted garment. Back neck shaping and front neck shaping are worked separately to create proper garment proportions.

Stitches Used

The Kukiko sweater employs fundamental knitting stitches combined with patterned colorwork:

• Stockinette stitch (stocking stitch): The primary fabric structure, created by alternating knit rows on the right side with purl rows on the wrong side, producing a smooth, uniform surface.
• Ribbing: The pattern begins with a knit 2, purl 2 ribbing (K2, P2 repeat) at the lower edge, which provides elasticity and helps the sweater maintain its shape.
• Patterned stockinette stitch: The intarsia colorwork is worked within stockinette stitch, with pattern repeats integrated throughout the body of the sweater.

Materials

The Kukiko sweater requires two complementary Rowan Cocoon yarns in specific quantities depending on size:

• Yarn A – Mountain (shade 805): A primary color yarn required in quantities ranging from 7 to 10 balls of 100 grams each, depending on the chosen size.
• Yarn B – Polar (shade 801): A contrasting color yarn for the intarsia pattern, required in quantities ranging from 4 to 5 balls of 100 grams each.
• Needles: The pattern calls for two pairs of needles in different sizes. A 6mm (US 10) needle is used for the ribbed edging, while a 7mm (US 10½) needle is used for the main patterned stockinette stitch work.

Gauge and Tension

Achieving the correct gauge is essential for proper fit. The pattern specifies a tension of 14 stitches and 16 rows to 10 centimeters, measured over patterned stockinette stitch using the 7mm (US 10½) needles. This gauge ensures the sweater will achieve the intended finished measurements and drape appropriately.

Pattern Structure

The sweater is constructed in separate pieces beginning with the back panel. The back is worked from the cast-on edge upward, incorporating the intarsia pattern throughout. Shaping for the armholes is introduced at specific row intervals, followed by shoulder and back neck shaping. The front is worked similarly with additional shaping for the front neckline. The pattern provides detailed instructions for each of the five sizes, with specific stitch counts and row counts tailored to create proper proportions across the size range.