Rowan Swallowtail Cardigan Knitting Pattern

Rowan Swallowtail Cardigan by Kim Barnette

What is Being Made

The Rowan Swallowtail is a knitted cardigan designed by Kim Barnette, available in five sizes: Small, Medium, Large, Extra Large, and Extra Extra Large. This garment features a sophisticated construction method where the back, fronts, and sleeves are worked separately to the armholes before being joined together to work the yoke in one continuous piece to the neck edge.

Construction Techniques

The Swallowtail employs a bottom-up construction method, meaning the cardigan is knitted starting from the lower edges and working upward. The garment pieces are worked flat on circular needles rather than in the round for the body sections, then seamed together at the appropriate points. This approach allows for precise shaping and the incorporation of lace patterning throughout the design. The yoke is worked in one piece after the individual components are joined, creating a seamless transition from the body to the neckline.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The Swallowtail features two primary stitch patterns:

• Lace Rib – A decorative stitch pattern worked over a multiple of 5 stitches plus 2. The pattern includes an 8-row repeat with a Set-up Row worked on the wrong side. The Lace Rib incorporates knit and purl combinations along with yarn overs and decreases (specifically k2tog, or knit two together) to create openwork details. Rows 1 and 5 are worked in reverse stockinette and knit (P2, *k3, p2; repeat). Row 3 introduces the lace element with the sequence P2, *k2tog, yo, k1, p2; repeat, where "yo" represents a yarn over for increased stitches and "k2tog" decreases to maintain stitch count. Row 7 begins another lace sequence with P2, *k1, yo, continuing the openwork pattern.
• K3/P2 Rib – A ribbed stitch pattern that alternates three knit stitches with two purl stitches, providing structure and elasticity to the finished garment.

The back piece begins with a Set-up Row of Lace Rib, then repeats Rows 1–8 of the Lace Rib pattern until the piece measures 13 inches from the cast-on edge. The ribbing is then established with K3/P2 Rib worked for 2 rows before binding off at the armholes. Left and right fronts follow a similar construction, with a slipped edge stitch maintained throughout for a finished selvage.

Materials and Needles

The Swallowtail is knitted using Rowan Creative Linen yarn, with yardage requirements of 6, 6, 7, 7, and 8 balls of 100 grams each for sizes Small through Extra Extra Large respectively. The cardigan shown in the pattern photograph is worked in the colorway Leaf 632.

The pattern requires two circular knitting needles: a 32-inch (80 cm) circular needle in US size 5 (3¾mm) for the main fabric and a 24-inch (60 cm) circular needle in US size 3 (3¼mm) for ribbed sections, or sizes adjusted as needed to obtain proper gauge. Additional materials include stitch markers, scrap yarn for stitch holders, and two buttons measuring 1¼ inches (3.2 cm) in diameter.

Gauge and Tension

The pattern specifies a tension of 25 stitches and 28 rows to 4 inches (10 cm) measured over the Lace Rib pattern using the larger needle. Achieving the correct gauge is essential for proper fit and is emphasized in the pattern instructions.

Sizing Details

The back piece begins with cast-on counts of 112, 122, 132, 142, or 152 stitches for sizes Small through Extra Extra Large. After working the lace and rib sections, 6, 7, 7, 8, or 8 stitches are bound off at the armholes on each side, leaving 100, 108, 118, 126, or 136 stitches respectively. The left front is cast on with 58, 63, 68, 73, or 78 stitches, with corresponding decreases at the armhole. This graduated sizing ensures proper proportions across the