Valley Yarns Scallopwing Knitting Pattern

Valley Yarns Scallopwing Cardigan

What is Being Made

The Valley Yarns Scallopwing is an intermediate-level long-sleeved cardigan designed by Julie Turjoman. This garment is crafted from Valley Yarns Hampden, a luxurious blend of 50% baby alpaca, 35% fine merino wool, and 15% mulberry silk that provides soft stitch definition. The cardigan is available in sizes ranging from XS to 4XL, with finished bust measurements from 34 inches to 62½ inches and lengths from 24¼ inches to 27¾ inches. The design is particularly suited for spring weekend activities and features a sophisticated aesthetic with thoughtful design details throughout.

Key Design Features

• Double Trellis Hem Texture: A stunning decorative border worked from the hem to the top of the hips, creating visual interest and adding dimension to the lower body
• Ribbed Front Bands: Integrated front bands that provide structure and a polished finish
• Inset Welt Pockets: Set-in pockets positioned above the hem texture, lined in a contrast color for a designer touch
• Contrast Color Details: The contrast color used for pocket linings is repeated on all cast-on and bind-off edges for design continuity
• Crew Neck Shaping: Left and right fronts are worked with crew neck shaping for a classic, flattering neckline

Construction Techniques

The Scallopwing cardigan is constructed using a bottom-up method, meaning knitting begins at the hem and progresses upward toward the neckline. The garment is worked flat in rows rather than in the round, using circular needles to accommodate the width of the fabric. The body is knitted in one piece from the bottom up to the armholes, with the front bands integrated directly into the body stitch count for seamless construction. After the main body sections are complete, the piece is finished with seamed construction where necessary, and a neckband is worked from stitches picked up around the neck during the finishing process. The single hem is created using the contrast color at the cast-on edge, establishing the foundation for the double trellis texture that follows.

Stitches and Stitch Patterns

The primary stitch pattern used throughout most of the cardigan is stockinette stitch, which creates a smooth, classic fabric ideal for showcasing the beautiful yarn blend. The defining feature of this design is the double trellis stitch pattern worked as a decorative border at the hem, adding textural contrast and visual sophistication. Ribbing is used for the front bands, providing elasticity and a refined finish. The pocket linings are also worked in the contrast color, creating a functional and decorative element that adds depth to the design.

Materials and Tools

The main color yarn is Valley Yarns Hampden in color #12 Cloudy Sky, requiring 11 to 22 hanks depending on size (each hank contains 50 grams and 95 yards). A single hank of the contrast color, Valley Yarns Hampden in color #10 Lizard, is used for pocket linings and edge details. The yarn blend of 50% baby alpaca, 35% fine merino wool, and 15% mulberry silk creates a soft, lustrous fabric with excellent stitch definition.

Knitting needles include US size 7 (4.5 mm) circular needles measuring 16 inches or longer for the main fabric, worked at a gauge of 20 stitches and 28 rows over 4 inches in stockinette stitch when blocked. US size 5 (3.75 mm) circular needles of the same length are used for ribbed sections, which require a tighter gauge. Additional materials needed include stitch markers, locking stitch markers for pocket placement, stitch holders or waste yarn for managing stitches during construction, and a tapestry needle for seaming and weaving in ends.

Skill Level and Fit Considerations

Rated as an intermediate project, the Scallopwing cardigan is suitable for knitters with foundational skills who are ready to tackle more complex construction techniques. The pattern is designed to fit with 2 to 4 inches of positive ease; for a closer, more fitted silhouette, knitters are advised to work the project one size smaller than their typical size. The length options accommodate various preferences, ranging from 24¼ inches for petite sizes to 27¾ inches for larger sizes.