Valley Yarns #146 Full Moon Cocoon

Valley Yarns Full Moon Cocoon Shawl

What Is Being Made

The Valley Yarns Full Moon Cocoon is a lightweight yet warm woven shawl designed to drape elegantly and provide comfort on cool evenings. This garment is constructed from two identical woven panels that are sewn together, eliminating the need for cutting handwoven fabric. The finished cocoon shawl is one size fits most, with each panel measuring 38 ½ inches long by 22 inches wide before assembly. The design prioritizes softness and drape, making it an ideal layering piece for transitional seasons.

Weaving Technique and Structure

Huck lace is the primary weaving structure used for this project. Huck lace is an open-work weaving technique that creates decorative, airy patterns while maintaining fabric integrity. This technique is particularly suited to the Full Moon Cocoon because it produces square or slightly rectangular open areas that contribute to the garment's light weight without sacrificing warmth. The designer, Anita Thompson, selected huck lace specifically for its ability to create beautiful drape when combined with the chosen yarn fiber content.

The weaving requires a 4-shaft loom that is at least 26 inches wide. The warp is dressed at a sett of 18 ends per inch (epi), threaded through a 12-dent reed with 1-2 ends per dent. The loom setup includes 439 total warp ends distributed across four shafts as follows: Shaft 1 contains 143 heddles, Shaft 2 contains 146 heddles, Shaft 3 contains 76 heddles, and Shaft 4 contains 74 heddles. Weaving is executed with a single shuttle and bobbin, using a light beat to achieve approximately 18 picks per inch (ppi) in the finished fabric. Maintaining consistent, light tension during weaving is essential to preserve the open character of the lace pattern and ensure the fabric remains soft and supple rather than stiff.

Yarns and Materials

The Full Moon Cocoon is woven entirely with Valley Yarns 2/10 Merino Tencel, a blend of 50% merino wool and 50% Tencel. This yarn composition provides the ideal balance of warmth, softness, and drape. The yarn is supplied in 1540-yard cones weighing 8.8 ounces. The pattern requires 2773 yards total: 1647 yards for the warp and 1126 yards for the weft, necessitating two full cones of yarn in the Silver colorway. The merino wool component contributes natural warmth and elasticity, while the Tencel (a cellulose fiber) adds breathability and a luxurious hand feel against the skin.

The warp length is 3 ¾ yards, and the finished width in the reed measures 24.4 inches. After weaving, the two panels are washed and dried before assembly, which sets the fiber and enhances the fabric's drape and softness. A very small amount of medium-firm fusible interfacing is used during construction to stabilize seams where the two panels are joined.

Construction and Finishing

The Full Moon Cocoon is constructed by weaving two identical panels on the loom, each measuring 38 ½ inches long by 22 inches wide (excluding fringe). The design incorporates approximately 8 inches of fringe allowance along the warp, which is created by weaving scrap yarn at the beginning of the warp to spread the threads evenly. No cutting of the handwoven fabric is required; instead, the two panels are sewn together to create the finished garment. This construction method preserves the integrity of the handwoven fabric and eliminates the anxiety many weavers experience when cutting precious handwoven pieces.

Suitable Equipment

• 4-shaft floor or table loom, minimum width 26 inches
• 12-dent reed
• Single shuttle and bobbin
• Warping equipment for dressing a 3 ¾ yard warp of 439 ends
• Small amount of medium-firm fusible interfacing for seam stabilization

This weaving pattern is ideal for weavers with intermediate experience who are comfortable with multi-shaft looms and lace weaving techniques. The Full Moon Cocoon demonstrates how thoughtful fiber selection and lace structure combine to create a garment that is both beautiful and functional.